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World Of Tanks Tactics : A Compendium

All you want to know when you’re a beginner or you want to improve

Mercredi 4 mars 2020

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Until 2017, I played World of Tanks (WoT) a lot. Now, somewhat less. Hereunder, you will find both my own personal guide and a "guide to the guides".

I don’t pretend to be a very good player. In terms of win ratio, I’m a bit under average. I don’t pretend either to be able to perfectly follow all of the following tactics. I have simply found them useful : when I implement them, they work. All I hope is they help beginners and other medium level players, allowing them not to spend hundreds of battles before understanding what it takes to play better and to have fun with World of Tanks.

Warning :

  • this guide is *not* intended for the better-than-average player, not at all. Unicums and the like are kindly invited to take into consideration that I’m not addressing them
  • this guide is updated, but *not* regularly. Which means that some new overpowered (OP) tanks will be missing. And that a number of tanks which used to be OP but no longer are (because they’ve been buffed or because new, more powerful tanks have been launched by the game publisher) will still be listed. Please be reassured : in 90% of cases, choosing that kind of tank is still a good choice.

Table of contents








"WEBOGRAPHY" (useful links, especially tutorials)


World of Tanks is a massively multiplayer online game developed by Belarussian company Wargaming (now based in Cyprus), featuring mid-20th century (1930s–1960s) era tanks and self-propelled artillery.

Here are three major aspects of this game you should keep in mind :

  • World of Tanks is a game played by millions players throughout the world. Therefore, it is a very competitive game. If you don’t spend a minimum of one to two hours per day playing WoT, at least at the beginning, and you don’t concentrate on improving your gameplay, you can’t expect to reach over 49% WR (average win ratio). Or you’re a natural ;-)
  • as most massively multiplayer online gaming communities (MMO), WoT has its cheaters. And althought the game publisher has issued harder rules against them in November 2016 and cheating has receded, their implementation does not seem to be systematic (see Mods / Cheats)
  • WoT is very addictive. Spending whole nights on it is very common among players who are new to the game.

WoT is rather expensive to play. Here’s why :

  • frustration at making very slow progress through the grinding process [1] or losing too often is a very efficent way to induce players into paying ...
  • premium tanks cost a minimum of 10 euros, the average is 35 euros and some rare cost over 70 (Pz. II J). Not all of them are worth buying for the average player (see list of OP tanks below)
  • playing tiers IX and X — the higher tiers — is always very expensive, because at those tiers, if you’re not a unicum (best of the best) [2] and you play without a premium account, you end up most battles with a negative balance in terms of credits — which at some point you have to compensate for. While a premium account gives you 50% more credits and experience. For instance, even if you’re a unicum and you win, replenishing the ammunition stock and repairing your tank after the battle means you often end up with a negative result in credits, as shown in this replay where a tier X IS-7 kills 13 (out of 15 ...) of the enemy, makes 57 190 credits but in the end loses 19 000 credits simply because he hasn’t got a premium account. So we’re talking a minimum of 90 euros per year, the price of a premium account for that duration
  • gold ammo (APCR) must be bought (with credits). The thing is, if you want to make a difference in a battle where you’re not the higher tier, you just have to bring not one, not two, but at the very least three APCR shells with you
  • gold ammo may be less expensive if you have a premium account (it can last between one day and one year, but it is much more profitable to buy a month or a year, especially bundled with a premium tank). But remember : a premium account for one year starts at 100 USD.

In the above extract from a screen copy of the results of a victorious battle, the left column shows the actual credits results, and the right column shows what the credits results woud have been if the (Russian) player had a premium account. Losing 19 000 credits while killing 13 enemies out of 15 and winning the battle, just because you don’t have a premium (for-a-fee) account — that’s why World of Tanks can be called pay-to-win (it nevertheless remains a fun-to-play game)

As QuickyBaby, a professional player, said — and even wrote — in a 2018 video, « World of Tanks is pay-to-win (P2W) ». At the very least, it is « pay-to-win-more-often », as a clever player puts it. Taugrim, a quasi-pro player, writes : « WoT is rife with pay-for-advantage mechanics, but that’s not going to change, and [...] the vast majority of the community doesn’t care either ». See this debate on the subject on a WoT developper’s blog, particularly this post.

The introduction of wheeled vehicles in WoT at the end of 2018 is probably an effect of both the number of players receding [3] and the usual policy of Wargaming to issue very appealing premium (for-a-fee) vehicules. The designers want to retain or bring back players to the game — and make some more money in the process — with a quite new, over-powered concept. These armored cars, gifted with an insane mobility, all of the French Panhard line, were tested from September to December 2018. They’ve become standard in public battles in January 2019. They start at tier VI and are "too" fast so for the time being they aren’t that attractive to the new player.

So let’s be honest : WoT is not really free-to-play, it’s free-to-test and pay-to-win-more-often or pay-to-progress-faster for at least two thirds of the players. In two years, I spent more than 300 euros on the game.

But let’s be honest (bis) : this pay-to-win aspect is largely mitigated by the player’s experience and does not mean battles are rigged.

Also, if you just complete the missions and use for premium time, you get 10 days of premium every 30 days. And you can wait for an offer on premium (usually around Christmas). Playing in clans can also give you additional premium days. A lot of clans today accept below average players. All that may offset a lot of the cost you’d have to pay each year.

The best way to spare your money is to follow this concise piece of advice : Advice for killing all unicums ! :-) from a _WMD_ clan member, a player with more than 40.000 battles.

1) Avoid light tanks and artillerie. For a beginner these are not easy to play.
2) Save free exp for higher tiers to avoid horrendous stock tank grind, I recommend using free exp at 7, 8, 9 as at these tiers running tank costs credits.
3) What to spend gold [or money] on is a good premium tank and garage slots.
4) I recommend a good set of mods, hitskins [4], zoommod, serverside reticle and tank carousal.
5) Take advantage of sales and events, buy tanks, equipment and consumables at 50% off, you will need to have a stash of credits and free exp saved up for this.

One last note before we deal with tactics : if you’re a beginner at WoT, do not think high tiers (from VII to X) are more fun to play. Not at all. They need more expertise, but they’re not more fun per se. In my opinion, if you’re not that ambitious at WoT, remaining at tiers III to VI is fun, rewarding enough and not too expensive. IX and X can even be boring because movements are very repetitive (peek-a-boom, back up, reload, peek-a-boom, back up, reload, rinse and repeat) and camping more frequent. In this respect, compared with tiers IX and X public (random) battles, clan wars can be more fun.


What follows is the most useful tactics for beginners (so called "noobs") and under-medium-level players.

- 0. If you’re in a hurry, read/watch the WoT wiki’s Tactics page. Not all tricks and tactics are listed there but the drawings are very clear.

- 1. Wait ! Don’t rush. I repeat : DO-NOT-RUSH. At the beginning of the battle, wait for approximately 3 seconds to see where your allies are going, then :
a. see whether one flank of the map would really need more allies. If not (which is generally the case at tiers 3 and above), go with the flow, according to your type of tank : i.e. TDs generally stay close to base, lights scout along the mid-map line, heavies go to choke points and mediums support heavies (for more information, look for guides dedicated to one type of tank in the Webography below)
b. identify the allies you could team up with (e.g. follow an experienced player if you’re a beginner or accompany a heavy if you drive a medium)
c. move accordingly.

The simple fact of not rushing immediately to the front line, of letting other, more experienced players on your team reach the front line before you do, will save you a lot of hit points (hp, i.e. your health), which in turn will allow you to survive till the end of the battle when the winners are those with the maximum health (see rule 2. Avoid getting shot).

If one flank/side of the map is undermanned, try to convince your allies to send enough tanks to that side (the strict minimum is three tanks, with no lights among them), *but* in public/free-for-all battles, that generally doesn’t work so be prepared to follow the "lemming trail" (i.e. the biggest stream of allied tanks) more often than not, just so you don’t hold the undermanned flank and sacrifice yourself with no clear advantage to the team. I repeat : if one flank isn’t covered at all, then don’t sacrifice yourself to hold it, that would be useless. You’ll get overrun very quickly, which means you won’t make a difference. In that case, I recommend even arties go with the flow. Or at least hide the farthest possible from base.

There are two exceptions to this rule but only if you’ve become somewhat experienced (more than 1000 battles) : see rules 53. and 54.

- 2. Avoid getting shot. In other words : don’t put yourself in a position that will get you easily shot. Do not stand obviously in view of the enemy. Don’t take that second shot — go back to cover instead (the reason is your tank looses all camouflage after having fired : every enemy can see it — and will fire on it). If you drive a TD (TD = tank destroyer/anti-tank, their sign is a triangle turned upside down) or a light tank, hide, run and relocate as often as possible. In a word : do not expose yourself.
Keep your health — refered to as hit points (hp) — as if you’ve only had 1 hit point left from the start of the battle. Save health for the end. Statistics show that at the end of the battle, the winning team is generally the one with the most health. Being low on health means you’re a one shot and you can’t possibly help your team because you can’t take any risk.

- 3. Stay alive. Once you’re dead, you can’t do a thing, right ? Do avoid "suiscout" (suicide scouting : running to the enemy base, trying to reap as many first spot points as possible). And once again, don’t take that second shot, go back to cover instead.

- 4. Play according to tier and win rates (WR) : yours and your opponents’. For instance, if your heavy tank is tier 5 and you encounter a majority of tier 6 and 7, it would be foolish to play it the way heavies are generally recommended to play (i.e. go to the front line and take hits). On the contrary, you should stay behind your own higher tier heavies (not too close, otherwise they can’t retreat when needed) or act as a TD. If you’ve got a low win rate, join a player who’s got a good WR and support him — but don’t bother him, for instance don’t stand in his line of fire.
The preceding advice is very important and often overlooked by new or even somewhat experienced players. You shouldn’t always play according to the tutorials (including this one) aka « avoiding fixed thinking is a good idea ». The general idea is that the higher your tier in the battle, the more agressive you should be. See Lord_Demon’s excellent advice on that [5].
To know others’ tiers and win rate :

  • compare your own tier with the others’ (the tier is written in Latin digits near the icon of tank) before the battle starts and determine whether you are low, mid or high tier in the battle
  • use the XVM mod to see win rates in battle.

- 5. Never go/stay alone unless you’re a scout or a unicum (a unicum is a darn good player). Work by twos at the minimum. When one is attacked, back him up by shooting when he reloads or by outflanking the opponent and shooting him in the flank or rear. Also check your mini-map every 20 seconds to see if your support ran away.

- 6. If alone — which shouldn’t happen to you if you followed the previous rule — and outnumbered, either a. you have a fast tank so join your remaining allies or reposition yourself quickly in the back or the side of the enemy or b. you have a slow one so you hide with a maximum of walls or rocks behind you and on your sides so that the enemy have to be in your line of fire to get you.

- 7. Run, hide, fire. Run for a brief moment. Then hide for a brief moment (ideally a little more than 15 seconds) while checking where the enemy is visually by outfocusing and checking the minimap (see rule 51. Situational awareness). Then fire ONE shot — just one (two shots if and only if your rate of fire is very, very, very high) — otherwise you’ll get fired on in the next second. Then either run etc. (repeat the process) or take cover by moving backwards to reload and fire again (see rule 9. Peek-a-boom).

- 8. Don’t be greedy ! One of the most frequent mistakes — and the most dangerous — of beginners is to keep firing bravely on an enemy ... and getting killed in a handful of seconds because every enemy can see you (firing causes you to lose all camouflage). Totally useless. Surviving and retaining your hit points is key to success (see rule 2. Avoid getting shot).

- 9. Peek-a-boom [6]. If you’re hiding behind an obstacle and and one enemy is on the other side (be it close or far away) : step out just a little bit just after he has fired (i.e. while he is reloading) then shoot him in a weak spot, then fall back/take cover ASAP to reload. And again. Don’t use this tactic if you’re not good and quick at precision shooting. Also, if you’ve got enough space to move and you don’t need to counter the enemy ASAP, try to reappear a. not at the same place and b. at least after a 10 seconds’ wait. Why 10 secs ? Because that’s the maximum time [7] your tank remains silhouetted (even though you’re under cover and they can’t see you) after having fired.
For example, see what the unicum Martin WaterWar is doing in the battle hereunder : he spends half the battle in the same place, moving a few meters out of cover, shooting the closest enemy tank or a far one targeting him, retreating under cover, and again. Note that he’s constantly keeping in mind where the enemy tanks, be they close or far away, are and which ones are the most dangerous, so as not to get into their line of fire when he gets out of cover.
For a detailed discussion of peek-a-boom tactics, look at this video from Sir Havoc, starting at 9:35, and pay attention to his commentary.

- 10. Don’t stay too long in a position where you are the only one blocking the enemy’s advance and you have a lot of them in front of you (approx. 3 or more). Fire one, two or three shots, then retreat under cover 50 m away. If you don’t, they’ll clober you or they’ll outflank you and shoot you from behind.

- 11. If you have to choose between firing and moving (for instance because an enemy has just appeared behind you), move first, you’ll see whether you are in a firing position afterwards.

- 12. Take your time to aim properly : you will miss less often. This is especially true for artilleries. Also, some tanks have a very limited number of shells. And if you wait untill the gun reticle has shrunk to its minimal size, the chances your shell will miss are the lowest. One last reason for aiming properly : if you miss and therefore did not stop your opponent, during your reload time he will aim better, he will come closer to you, you will make a better target for him and in the end you will be much more likely to get shot. The one and only exception to this rule is when you are attacked at very close range by a faster tank : you don’t have time to aim, and if you wait, he will "circle-of-death" you. So aim approximately and fire ASAP.

- 13. Focus your fire. Emulate your closest ally by firing at the same target. This will get rid of the enemy tank very quickly and less enemy tanks means less guns firing at you. And less guns firing at you means your chances of winning increase.

- 14. Aim for the weak spots of the enemy tanks. Generally the weak spots are :

  • rear and side of the hull. So whenever possible, try to outflank the enemy tank
  • the turret sides
  • the commander’s cupola (the hatch on top of the turret)
  • the lower front glacis (LFG). This is a must-know when confronted to German or Russian opponents : apart from the commander’s cupola (which is difficult to targer because of its smal size), it will often be their only weak spot on the front
  • view ports, machine gun port, and hatches elsewhere on the vehicle. But beware : some of them aren’t actually modelled ingame and just visual but no weakspot
  • the front and rear of the tracks are the equivalent of a weak spot : the enemy will be stopped for a few seconds at least and during that time it will become an easy target. Permatrack him and he’ll be a sitting duck for your arty
  • a not well known weak spot : the fuel tanks, which are easily hit by shooting slightly above the tracks behind the turret.

Learn by heart the major weak spots of all major tanks, especially the weak spots on their front. The best tools to do so are :

The green areas are the most easily penetrable. On top is the commander’s cupola and at the botton the lower front glacis, two very frequent and easy-to-remember weak spots (image from WoTGuru)

- 15. Premium ammo (sometimes calld gold shells) (APCR [8]) and HEAT [9] are very expensive in credits. Make AP (so called "silver") your default ammo and only buy 2 to 3 gold shells per battle. Do not forget to chage from AP to APCR or HEAT (so called "gold") when confronted to heavies. But for the above mentioned reason, don’t take the habit to systematically fire gold.
Note : Gold ammo is less expensive if you have a premium account. But remember : a premium account for one year starts at 100 USD.

- 16. HE (High Explosive). That type of shell is only used by experienced players. It has a devastating effect on lightly armored vehicules, i.e. they can one-shot artillery and two-shot light tanks and open-top tank destroyers. HE is also useful against hulldown tanks. In a kill-or-be-killed situation, when the enemy is not heavily armored or has lost most of its pool of hit points, they can make the difference. But they are ineffective against heavies’ best armored parts. As an exception, HE are efficient against the O-I and O-I Exp Japanese super heavies, even when they’re high on health.

- 17. Equipment (i.e. improved binocular telescope, improved ventilation, coated optics, gun rammer, gun laying drive ...) : how to choose the best suited ones. Follow the recommandations on the WoT wiki page dedicated to your tank (just google wot name_of_tank then click on the result in English named "name_of_tank - Global wiki."). They’re reliable in most cases. Or follow the recommandations of unicum player (and full-time streamer) Skill4LTU in the "09 Equipment" tab at the top of this Google document.
If unsure, search the WoT forums with the name of your tank and the word equipment.

If you can’t find info on that — and as a general rule —, use :

  • binocs : they enable you to see much farther than the stock value of the tank, therefore to hit more enemies
  • gun rammer : it accelerates the gun reload
  • vents : this gives a 5% boost to the team/tank performances.

Beware, equipment is very expensive in credits (generally 500 000 credits for binoculars, for instance) so don’t buy them if you’re short of credits (i.e. under 1 million). Otherwise, you run the risk of becoming broke and having to sell some tanks and go back to tiers 1 to 3 for a long time (it is impossible to play as long as you don’t have enough credits to repare your tanks and to buy ammunition).

Also, keep some gold to be able to demount equipment once you’re done with a tank. It costs 10 gold per piece and saves up to 300 000 credits.

A classic list of equipment

- 18. Your back and the upper part of your flanks (i.e. not your tracks) are the weakest part of your armor. Face the enemy (therefore you have to know where he is : see rule 51. Situational awareness) and NEVER expose your flanks. But if you estimate you can’t fight him, turn your back to him as soon as possible and run to a hiding place because tanks are much slower in reverse.

- 19. Angle/slant your front armor towards the enemy. This increases your tank’s effective hull armor. The recommended angle depends on the tank but here is a rule of thumb : when pointing your gun to the enemy, it should be positioned directly over your right or left front wheel — never over your side.
Nevertheless, if you drive a "glass canon" (fragile TD with "paper" armor), you can forget about angling because it’s useless.

- 20. In corners, "side-scraping" allows your turret to have a line of sight/your gun to bear without over-exposing your armor.

From TheIrishLegend’s video tutorial Advanced Heavy Tank Strategies

- 21. Hull down. If your turret armor is good (heavy tanks, especially American ones, and most of the German and Russian tanks), whenever possible, try to hide your hull behind an obstacle (a rock, a sand dune, a small wall or any declivity), leaving only your turret visible. This is very efficient because the turret front (especialy the mantle, the area around the base of the gun) is generally the tank’s strongest armored part and because most of the weak spots are on the hull. Also, since this makes you a much smaller target, you’re much more difficult to hit.
NB : not all maps will give you obvious, easy to use places for hull down tactics such as a rock cut down exactly to the height of your turret. Generally, you will need to use a slope and position yourself at some distance from its top. In this case, you will also need to have a gun with good depression.

Hull down position on a slope (from Wikipedia). The red dotted line shows which part of your tank the enemy in front will see.

- 22. Don’t block your team mates shot. Don’t stand in their line of fire.
And please don’t sit in a TD’s position behind a bush near base. This means a. you’re not doing your job and b. worse, you’re preventing an ally from doing his.

- 23. If you’re driving a fast tank and are confronting an enemy with a slow rate of fire in a street or a narrow valley, instead of hiding behind an obstacle, you have the option to overrun him : accelerate forward, rush him and shoot him in the flank and then in the back. That’s particularly efficient if your tank is a fast-firing one.
See for instance what this Russian player is doing in the video hereunder with his Object 260 to the powerful but slow to relaod Caernarvon (at 5:00). At the same time, this is not the best exampel since the Caernarvon outreloads the 260.

- 24. NEVER cross an open field. Use a line of trees/bushes/hills/dunes/rocks/houses/killed tanks/a river bed or make a detour to get to the desired place.

- 25. NEVER attack trough the middle of the map : it’s the killing zone. Always attack through the aisles, even if they are blocked by enemy fire.
As for all rules, there is a bunch of exceptions [10] :

  • not exactly an exception, but if there’s a town in the center of the map (Abbey or Fisherman’s Bay towns are typical examples), you should at least occupy it and hold it — and sometimes attack through it
  • not exactly an exception (again), but if you’re in light tank, at the beginning you have to light up the enemy tanks for your team so you go center at full speed along the ridge lines (but you don’t stay here)
  • there are other exceptions, depending on the map, but to master them, you need to be above average (48-49% WR is average) and this guide is not for good players but for beginners and average ones.

- 26. Speed. Don’t count on your speed to evade shells. Always think about where you will hide after and if possible during your move. Use your speed only to get to a good position at the beginning of the battle or to relocate when having been spotted. Specifically :

  • don’t go yolo (going full speed into the enemy ranks)
  • and don’t suiscout (used for light, fast tanks who go full speed into enemy territory just to get as much credits as possible by being the first to spot as many enemies as possible ... and then die quickly, therefore not really helping their team).

- 27. Move ! Never stay at the same place more than a few seconds after having fired or having been spotted. 5 seconds is a maximum. Otherwise, you’re a sitting duck for enemy tanks, especially artillery — in other words, it’s a matter of seconds before arty, a TD or a bigger tank "frags" you. Always bear in mind that even if you don’t see any enemy, enemy arty sees you. Arties can kill you in one shot.

What are the alternatives ? :

  • play peek-a-boom (see rule 9.)
  • or relocate (see rule 7.)
  • a particular case : when you face an enemy and you’re hiding partially between an obstacle and you’re sure arty can’t hit you (i.e. you’re close to wall or a rock), move back and forth to thwart enemy’s aim.
    See for instance what the Russian player is doing in the video hereunder with his Object 260 (starting at 0:32).

IF you have sixth sense, move back directly after shooting. If you’re not lit up, you can remain there. If youre spotted, dont repeak unless you’re sure you’re no longer spotted and won’t get lit up getting into position before you shoot. Repeaking is dangerous.

- 28. Get under cover when you reload, even if your reload time is very quick (under 3 seconds). When you’re in a heavy, know your reload time by heart. See rule 7. Run, hide, fire and rule 9. Peek-a-boom.

- 29. How to use bushes (1). How to hide *in* the bushes. Bushes or fallen trees hide your tank to the enemy’s eyes — unless an enemy’s closer than 50 meters. Hide just behind the bushes or in them. This way, it’s easier for you to detect enemy tanks approaching and you don’t depend on others to scout for you. However, if, apart from your gun, there is but a small part of your tank that sticks out of the bush (the commander’s cupola, a sprocket), you will be spotted. And as soon as you have fired, you become spotted.
How to hide *away* from the bushes. If you hide more than 15 meters from the bushes (you know you’re 15 m away when suddenly they’re not transparent any more for you), you can fire without being spotted.

- 30. How to use bushes (2) : the invisible tank. Put the cursor over the nearest enemy while he is still far away. The distance to the target is highlighted. If it is over 445 m, you can’t be seen. It’s possible to stay between 450 and 700 m and be completely invisible the entire game. Once the enemy moves closer, just move away and continue being an invisible sniper while your team spots for you. If someone else is spotting the enemy, stay 15m+ behind the bush and fire all you want — the enemy won’t be able to see you. Move into the bush to spot, then back out of the bush 15m+ to fire — the enemy will remain on the screen for a few seconds while you are backing up and aiming, and then you won’t turn the bush translucent when you fire. Invisible sniper.

This old video is otherwise still accurate, but fallen trees do give camo bonus nowadays.

NB : for unheard of sniping positions (which often use bushes), see point 6. in Maps tactics.

- 31. How to use bushes (3) : looking for the invisible tank. If you see an enemy tank silhouetted behind a very light cover (bushes or wood planks) and it suddenly disappears, this doesn’t mean it’s gone very far. It’s just gone a few meters away. So you may still fire at where it was two seconds ago.

- 32. How to use bushes (4) : looking for TDs. Bushes with a view on a large area are THE place where TDs will hide. Know your map, look for them, search them, fire blind at them.

- 33. Under train carriages. If the enemy tank is hidden by a train, try to aim for its tracks. Yes, by firing under the train carriage !

- 34. No pain, no gain. Aka campers are losers. Camping (staying near one’s base and waiting there for the enemy to come), while being the easiest tactic to devise, and the more comfortable in the beginning, generally ends in a sudden defeat. Because you give the enemy all the necessary time to scout your perimeter and light up all your tanks on their mini-maps, then their arties start aiming at you while their heavies and TDs prepare to move just a few meters away from you and as soon as they appear in your scope, they fire their gold shells on all your first line’s weak spots. You are now 2 to 3 tanks down, outnumbered, confused and trying to retreat ...

- 35. If playing scout, do *not* fire on the enemy. You won’t penetrate it, you will lose all your camouflage, therefore you will get spotted and most probably destroyed in ten seconds.
There are two exceptions to this rule : you should shoot a. arties any time (because they have no armor) and b. all tanks (in the back) at the very end of the game.

- 36. If a medium, a heavy, a TD or an arty has its back to a big stone, a wall or the red limit of the map, don’t try to kill it. Spot it for arties and bring the big tanks.

- 37. If you are in a corridor/bottleneck/funnel and you’re blocked by one or more enemy tanks, leave the same number of tanks to contain them, but only well armored ones (*not* scouts, they have neither the firepower nor the armor), then outflank them with the rest of the tanks. Don’t wait, do that quickly or *they* will outflank you. If there is no way to outflank them, don’t take stupid risks, just hold the position and either wait for them to make a mistake or — better — send one fast tank with a powerful gun (a fast TD, for example) to try and peek-a-boom the nearest enemy.

OK, this relies on teamplay. But you get the idea.

- 38. When you’re David (v. Goliath) or : When you face a stronger tank. If your tank is slow, face him and shoot his belly (so called "lower front glacis" or LFG ; only if it’s a German or a Russian), his machine gun slot, the commander’s cupola or the front wheel. If your tank is fast, outflank him and shoot his side or — much better — his back. If you’re too close to escape his fire, run to him in zigzags, angling your tank. Then "circle of death" him — only if you’re good at that (if not, train yourself).

- 39. When you’re Goliath, or Tactics for heavies. If you’re among the three heavier tanks (biggest guns, heavier armor) among your allies, it’s your job to make the push and take the shots for your team mates.
But don’t go into open spaces and don’t try to climb hills, you’re too slow for that. Prefer cities/villages/houses/walls, corridors between rocks or ridges. Although it has good armor, keep your tank angled (see also Taugrim’s guide to angling) and hull down (see rule 21.) and use sidescraping (see rule 20.).
You have armor, so you can take a few seconds to expose yourself to the enemy’s fire in order for your gun reticle to close in on them.
You’re slow, especially when moving in reverse, so don’t be greedy, because in case you get yourself into a bad situation, making a U-turn or going backwards won’t be a viable option. Finally, you’re ... heavy, so you can ram all enemies but heavies.
NB : at least one very good player recommends to use one’s heavy as a scout. In his video How To Not Suck In Your Heavy Tanks, he gives four other excellent tips — not to be followed if you’ve played less than 1000 battles.

I recommend the seven very good guides for heavies beginners available on the WoT Xbox forum (them being written for the Xbox version of WoT doesn’t make them any less useful since rules for engagement of heavies in WoT for Xbox are exactly the same as WoT for PC).

- 40. Auto aim : when to use it. When circling an enemy, it’s difficult to aim at the same time, so use the in game auto aim (to activate it, right click on or near your target ; it will stay on the target till you turn it off, lose sight of the enemy, or it gets destroyed). The other situation in which you can use auto aim effectively is when you’re chasing down a target from behind in a straight line. But do NOT use auto aim in any other situation because it aims at the center of the tank (it does not know weak spots), so if you use auto aim while firing at the front of the target, you’re going to hit its highly protected upper front plate. Also, auto aim is unable to lead the target.
For special uses of auto aim, read this forum thread (in French). It contains interesting suggestions, such as ShinGetsu’s one : when he’s aiming at a stationery enemy at more than 400 m, he use auto aim to be sure not to miss it.
NB : Claus Kellerman has uploaded an excellent video on a useful alternate way to auto aim and how to set it up. Watch it.

- 41. Avoid putting yourself into positions you can’t get out of. Always look for paths for retreat or stay with your allies. And check your minimap !

- 42. When an enemy tank reaches the top a hill, it cannot fire down on you from there until it has reached the down slope. So you may stay on the slope and shoot at the opponent when it appears, right in its vulnerable belly, before it can even point its gun on you. Another alternative is retreating quickly down hill backwards when facing a better opponent and firing at him whenever he tries to go down the slope, provided you can find some cover or allies at some point — not too late.

But beware : there are a lot of tanks with enough gun depression to shoot you.

- 43. Keep into account/learn by heart the enemy tank’s reload time. This is especially useful when you’re fighting a corner (city/village battles).

- 44. When fighting around a corner or in a street, if you choose a static position, don’t forget to angle your tank or to sidescrape (see rule 39.). Try not to show the enemy your side. But the best tactic, generally, is moving forward just enough to see the extremity of the opponent (the best target being the front sprocket because then the enemy can’t move), fire on it and then go back very quickly. If you pilot a fast tank and your opponent is alone, try to go full speed, overrun the enemy and shoot it in the side and the back (Cromwells are very good at that.) If the curve of the corner goes inverted (like a hole in the curve), defend the corner from this "hole" but watch out for not being overrun — which means you can’t do it alone, you need at least another allied tank behind you.

- 45. If playing a TD, always find a well hidden place with a clear line of sight/fire. Generally, it is located on slopes, small hills and in bushes/under trees or behind a rock.

- 46. When waiting for the enemy to come, especially if you’re in a TD, do not look to where your allies are. Instead, look the other way. That’s because an experimented opponent will not go straight for the trap but instead will try to flank you.

- 47. If you are engaging multiple targets, take out the most dangerous and the weaker one first. Look for the remaining hit points. Concentrate your fire on that tank and don’t stop until you take him out of the battle. Erase heavies and powerful, "glass cannon" TDs first (glass cannon = devastating gun but no armor).

- 48. How to cap (1). Do not capture the enemy base ("cap") until you are 100% sure to have gained total supremacy, i.e. you have killed all but one of your enemies, he is not a dangerous tank and you still have 3 or more tanks. Why ? Because capturing the enemy base indicates where you are, maintaining the capture puts you at a disadvantage because it limits your movements, and generally base areas offer very few protection and places to hide.
Nevertheless, it can be efficient to drive into the "cap", then "decap" shortly after and hide around the enemy base to snipe at them. "Caping" generally induces the enemy to approach its base.

- 49. How to cap (2). [exception to the rule above] When the end of the battle looks like it will be a draw (3 v. 3 for example or the last enemly cannot be found), don’t hesitate to capture the enemy base quickly, even though good players may oppose it.

- 50. How to cap (3). When you’re close to the enemy base, look for arties or enemy tank hidden near the base — that’s very common. Get rid of them first before "capping".

- 51. Situational awareness (SA) : make the mini-map bigger and glance at it every five seconds (according to LuckyLeopard, a 54% WR player, ignoring the minimap is the #1 noob mistake), look for enemies behind you and on your flanks, do not concentrate all your attention on the opposite tank/the tank you’re firing on (cf rule 4. : run, hide, shoot, run ...) and know where your allies are to check whether they need help. In one sentence : it’s the tank that you haven’t seen that will kill you. More about it.
NB : a very useful setting for the minimap is checking the following three options in the general settings :

  • Show the view range circle
  • Show the minimum spotting range
  • Show the draw circle.

- 52. Strategy (1). Maps / Location. ON ANY GIVEN MAP, LEARN BY HEART WHERE TO GO AND HIDE AND WHERE NOT TO. At tier 3 and over, WoT is (mostly) a game of where-should-I-be. Being in the wrong place will get you killed very quickly. See map related tactics infra. Especially, learn where to stop after the first run at the start of the battle, depending on the map (generally at the bushes/ridge/town just before the middle of the map). If you go too far, you’ll get killed very fast and very easily. There are two ways to learn map strategy and stop being a poor player :

  • study a well known resource for that : the WoT Guru MapStrategy Guides
  • and/or pay attention in battle to where experienced tankers playing the same type of tank as you go (instal XVM to know who’s good or not).

- 53. Strategy (2). Once the strategy for the map has been (implicitly most of the time) chosen by the team, it’s no use having second thoughts : follow the lemming trail. If you drive a light, a medium or a heavy, you should go with the flow. But if you play a TD, you should either a. go with them if they’re good players or b. stay well hidden close to base if they’re bad because they’re not going to be able to prevent enemy tanks from coming for the arties and base. For instance, if your team leaves three tanks plus arty at the base, advance till the middle of the map and then play campers, then it’s not three tanks your team should leave but eight : three is barely enough to defend base against a concerted enemy attack and at the same time, two or three of those allied tanks left behind will be sorrowly missed by the attacking allied party.
You can’t play a defensive and aggressive strategy at the same time. It just doesn’t work. In open battles, between 80 and 85% cases are attack strategy, aka campers are losers (but some maps such as Mines generally favor the defensive strategy). So only leave arty and one or two TD behind, that’s all. If you’re too slow to tag along, find a spot from where you can play the sniper and protect your arty.
That doesn’t mean that all tanks should go to one side of the map, leaving the other flank uncovered ... But as I wrote in rule 1. above, if that happens, sacrificing yourself to counter the threat on the other flank won’t change the outcome — you’ll get overrun very quickly. At the very minimum, you need three tanks to hold a flank (without any of them being a light).

- 54. Strategy (3). In public battles, you can always try to direct your allies but don’t count too much on them. So do yourself what you think the team should do if (and only if — otherwise go with the lemming trail) this is a) vital, b) your tank is strong enough and c) you are experienced enough.
For example, if the left flank of the map is not covered at all and you think it should be in order to deprive the enemy from a real quick and easy victory, tell the team and then, if no answer, do it yourself if your tank is strong enough to withold the enemy long enough. Just do it while taking into account your tank’s limits, e.g. if you drive a TD, hide far away while if you have a heavy, hide behind a corner.

- 55. Strategy (4). Don’t stay in a spot where you cannot bring your gun to bear on an enemy. Always check the mini-map and when you see a flank with not enough tanks to support it, go and help.

- 56. Strategy (5). According to the very good French player Panboum, the seven stages of a battle to know and master are :
- Prepare : know your vehicle and set it up with the relevant equipment (see rule 17. above) and consumables (see rule 57. below)
- Study : look at the match making (MM) (for that, you need to have XVM installed, see below) and the map during the first 30 seconds before the battle begins. If, for instance, there a majority of TDs on the enemy team, there is a high chance they will play defense, which means there is an opportunity, even a need to do some very thorough (but not aggressive) scouting since there won’t be a lot of mediums or heavies on the front line but at the same time there will be a high number of TDs waiting to snipe at you with their long range view and long range guns. Those enemy TDs need to be spotted too. If, on the other hand, there is a huge number of heavies on the enemy team, then that may allow aggressive scouting if they, as is normally the case, congregate at the usual choke points. Also, if the match making shows the enemy team is much better than yours, you can tell playing defense and scouting will generally be your team’s best option. Etc.
- Check : check where your team and your opponents are going. Check that you’re not too much ahead of your team and if alone, that you will be able to retreat to a safe place. See rule 1.
- Swap : scout enemy tanks as much as you can, exchange first shots cautiously and keep your tank intact
- Opportunity : the terrain is open, there are less tanks. Find opportunities
- Harvest : if your team is winning, finish the last tanks, go yolo if you have the speed, reap credits. You may lose some hit points now, it’s ok. If your team is losing, retreat, join your remaining allies in order to protect each other’s back and flanks and to protect your arties, try to remain alive as long as possible and to inflict as much damage to enemy tanks as possible in order to reap as much credits as possible
- Analyse your results : have a look at the result of the battle and analyse them. Try and see what you’ve done wrong.

- 57. Use consumables, especially at tier VI and over, and first off a small repair kit and a coffee or chocolate (the latter two boost your team’s, hence your tank’s, performance, but they’re expensive in credits). Know by heart the keyboard keys to them. For instance, the repair kit will spare you getting permatracked (getting your track knocked out repeatedly before autorepair repairs it, which means you’re a sitting-duck-quickly-losing-hit-points-and-dead-very-soon).
But beware : consumables are expensive in credits.

Consumables : the basic ones

- 58. Radio. When researching and installing better modules (gun, engine, turret, radio, tracks) do not neglect to upgrade your radio. Otherwise, you won’t be able to signal enemy tanks to your allies and they won’t be able to do the same for you either.

- 59. Statistics. Do not take into account at any stat about you other than damage done until you have about 2000 battles under your belt, especially if you play scout. The rule of thumb is doing damage equal to your own hit points ("Shoot to destroy" medal). Before 2000 battles, you can’t do much better than that.

- 60. Instinct. Once you have reached a few thousand battles, you can start trusting your instinct.

- 61. Resources. Have a look at the WoT Wiki, WoT Tank Compare and search the WoT forums (one forum per server : EU, Russia, North America, Asia, Korea, China). Also, have a look at the guides listed at the bottom of this page.
Those web sites give commentaries on performance and/or comparative statistics about the tanks. It will help you choose the best tanks and among them, the ones best suited for you. Those sites — and a number of videos on Youtube — will also help you improve your tactics.

- 62. Don’t hurry to tier VII to X tanks. You’ll get cursed and bullied by your own allies, you won’t have a clue to what’s happening in the battle, it will cost you a lot of real money (playing tier IX and X is always expensive : we’re talking a minimum of a hundred of euros per year here if you’re not good at the game) and your Win Rate (WR) will suffer. Take the necessary time to master — and appreciate — even a simple Leichtraktor (tier I) or a Vickers Medium II.

- 63. Focus on a tank line. Ideally, don’t play all kind of tanks from all nations at the same time. This causes you not to learn fully a tank line and its play style. Also, when you transfer crews, it costs you a lot of XP or gold. Instead, play all the tanks in a line you like until tier VIII, one at a time. Transfer a crew from a tank to the next one in the same line and don’t do it until they have reached a minimum of 100%. To speed train them, use an elite tank and tick the "Speed training" box. From that 100%, develop skills and perks. They should roughly have 1 skill once they reach tier III.

- 64. Specialize in one or two tanks and master them. The best way to have a good tank is simply to play only that one for a long time, untill its crew accumulates as much experience and skills (to "grind" a tank is the phrase used) as possible. Then your tank will have a better speed and will aim better and quicker than "stock" tanks.
Also, your own experience with it will allow you to know its limits (i.e. when not to confront certain enemies) and to manoeuver it perfectly (e.g. to master the "circle of death" with light tanks and some mediums or in a TD to know exactly where to go on each map).
Another way to say it : as explained by this forum post, you’re confronted to less guesses and less choices to make. Which makes your gameplay easier and more effective.

- 65. Crew skills an perks to install first : generally, Sixth sense (a perk) for the commander (it tells you when you’ve been spotted), then Repair (a skill) for everyone else. Go Brothers in arms (BIA, a perk) only if you can start training it on all crew members as it will only have an effect once all crew members are trained to 100% on it. I repeat : BIA doesn’t work al all unless all of the crew have it trained to 100%. But since it only gives a 5% increase in primary skills, which corresponds to roughly a 2.3% increase in hard stats, it is not as interesting as it seems. It’s better to apply it as a 3rd skill. Camouflage (a skill) on scouts and TDs.
Remember :

  • skills are immediately effective but their effectivity grows with the percentage reached
  • but perks don’t become effective until the crew member’s level reaches 100%.

If you want to know the ideal skills and perks for your tank, look for gamers’ advice : google the name of your tank then add the words "skills" and "wot".

Basic skills and perks

- 66. Settings. A perfect guide on which settings to choose is the video tutorial Recommended settings for World of Tanks made by unicum player Taugrim.

- 67. Mods. Install and use the most useful mods and add-ons. The only reall-recommended mod to install would be XVM : it will tell you the level of each player, therefore whom to follow or quasi-platoon with and whom to concentrate your fire on. If you use XVM, do *not* use it to judge your teams chances. Only use it to see who on your team you could maybe learn from and who on the enemy team is dangerous.
Other suggestions : Zoom (Sniper mode), Hitskins. This last mod covers tanks with colors indicating weak spots [11]), it has a similar effect as using or Tanks Inspector but in-game and at the same time with less precision. It distracts the average player a lot.
Other mods are the suject of a heated debate since a lot of players think they amount to cheating (see further down).

- 68. Practice. Practice in itself does not suffice but combined with putting these rules into pratice it will generally improve your skills. Remember that it is rare to have an all time win ratio above 50% before having played a few thousand battles.

- 69. Guides and videos. To learn more, read the guides and tutorials referenced underneath in Webography and watch Youtube videos by good players. I don’t recommend QuickyBaby or Jingles that much because in my opinion, they do not explain the tactics enough (but they’re fun to watch). I prefer to watch Martin Holding aka WaterWar, Taugrim, Lemming Rush or Skill4ltu, for instance.

- 70. Platoon, clan, academy and Discord/Mumble/Teamspeak servers. To learn even more, specially if you want to play at tier VI and over, you generally have to play in a clan : it does help in raising your play skills and your stats (WR, Win7, Win8). An alternative is to go to a WoT academy, such as EFTAC for French speaking players. Another, less exacting alternative is to go join a number of Discord, Mumble or Teamspeak servers where you can talk with members during the battle and get some advice afterwards.

- 71. Breathe ! If you find yourself in a losing streak, playing repeatedly badly or calling your allies names, just quit WoT for some time and get some fresh air ! Electronic games are known to create addiction and frustation (see About the (controversial) matchmaking in World of Tanks hereunder). But WoT is just that : a game, not real life :-)

- 72. Forums. In the game chat and the forums, experienced players will often be patronising, even scornful. They love to call "tomato" (red level, the lowest) or "noob" (someone unable to learn the basics) any player who complains, even if the guy is average. By the way, 47% win ratio is low but not bad and 48 to 49% *is* average (see Wotlabs color chart, it’s the reference), it represents 40% of the player base. (In other words, average is *not* tomato.) Just ask some advice or discuss with facts, data, screenshots and (most important) replays. If something in your post was unclear or ambiguous, you may add another post. But then just leave and let others continue the discussion. This way you won’t get dragged into a flame war.

More useful advice ? Watch Indoorwinner’s two 60 tips videos for beginner and intermediate level : Part I, Part II.


- 1. At least on the six maps most frequently played by beginners (Himmelsdorf, Ensk, Mittengard, Prokhorovka, Malinovka, Mines), learn by heart the places where to go to and hide after start.

- 2. If you’re not a unicum, on all maps, avoid the center : it’s the killing zone. Always attack through the aisles. (Yes, I know, we already said that. But this is THE major mistake made by beginners, so it’s worth repeating.)
For a list of other areas to avoid, look at the maps on this post : World of Tanks Where Not To Go On Maps (partly outdated but a must read when you start playing WoT).
By the way, staying alive/not getting killed/surviving is a great way to improve your credit earnings and to make the game more fun since you can participate longer. (Yes, I know, we already said that. But this is THE major mistake made by beginners, so it’s worth repeating.)

- 3. If, in a given map, you know your team won’t be able to get enough tanks (i.e. generally a minimum of 3) to a bottleneck/chokepoint (place where one must go through to capture the enemy base ou outflank the enemy) before the enemy does, you’d better not rush to this place and instead wait for the enemy at another hidden, well positioned place far enough and from which you can retreat easily without exposing your tank (for instance, don’t use a little rock isolated in an open space and behind which only one or two tanks can hide).

- 4. Any big dominant height (hill, sand dune ; but don’t take a simple isolated slope for a dominant height) with enough protection (rocks, houses) on it must be taken and held. It allows you to fire down on the enemy with great efficiency and from a long distance. Take into account that the armor "ceiling" (the armor on the turret’s and engine’s roofs) is very thin.

- 5. Always leave a strong mobile (*not* a heavy, this is not its job : rather a fast TD or medium) tank at base with arty. Arty cannot defend themselves from other tanks attacking from a short distance.

- 6. Always look for lines of sight, especially from far away and above, that you can use to fire on enemies from a distance (especially if you play TDs) or which allows to fire on you (whatever you play).
For unheard of sniping positions (which often use bushes), YouTube user cheapbooks has a series of videos called WOT sniping positions. If you mainly play TDs, check them out (although positions on the eldest videos might have disappeared because of map updates). Again, WoT is largely a map game, so knowing these positions is precious.

Map guides :

Live Oaks

Paris :

Prokhorovka :

  • fast light tanks go first the center ridge and regularly scout there, but they also have to scout the Eastern flank — a dangerous but much needed task (see infra)
  • first and foremost, kill those scouts and mediums surveying the central ridge. They are the "eyes" of the heavies and TDs (TDs traditionnaly sit on line 1 in the bushes or up the slope). Martin Waterwar’s video Digging out TDs shows how to do that
  • never forget to send at least 4 tanks (among them at least 1 TD with a very good view range, 1 heavy and 1 fast scout) to the road on the East side with the trees. At the beginning, they should not reach farther than one third — maybe even a quarter — of the distance. They should stay less than 70 meters away from each other and the TD should take a position high on the line 1 slope. Otherwise, they won’t be able to detect the enemy firing on the farthest allied tank — and fire back. The problem, if you spawn from the South, is this flank is prone to a sudden, often devastating attack from the North if you camp there. But at the same time, especially on the South bottom, there aren’t a lot of hiding places so tanks generally don’t move and it’s pretty easy to spot them or guess where to shoot
  • the hill is a key position : if spawning from the North, send 5 tanks (among them 2 heavies at least) to it (less is useless) or 2 to it and 2 others to the village if spawning from the South. Failing to capture it does not mean losing the battle but TDs should then be watching it in order to prevent any enemy sitting on its slopes from sniping easily and effectively at your allies. If a scout is able to reach the top of the hill before any opponent, it can control the hill : the scout patrols the hill at high speed, always twisting and turning to avoid hits, and lights the enmy tanks for its fellow artilleries and the TDs or heavies with good gun depression sitting on the slope just before the top of the hill and playing peek-a-boom
  • the key to protecting yourself is to hide behind the high slopes such as the one on which the railway sits or in the depressions on each side of the central ridge, much more than using bushes.

Malinovka :

  • the hill and the river are the two key corridors
  • always leave at least 3 non-arty tanks (among them 2 heavily armored ones) to defend base, mostly from (unprobable) attacks from the left side following the river
  • always send 5 tanks to the hill (3 mediums and 2 heavies). Pay attention : winning the hill does not guarantee you win the battle, especially if the opposite team is experienced : they will simply back down and their TDs will wait for you on the slope downward. In this case, either use the rock at each end of the flat top part of the hill to hide and fire on the enemy or charge down hill with at least 2 tanks : one will locate the enemy, the other will fire on them as soon as they reveal themselves by firing
  • send 1 or 2 tanks (preferably snipers with good armor) to the bushes on the top of the small hill on the right (if spawning from the South) or the left (if spawning from the North)
  • advice to beginners : never try to cross the open plain before the end of the battle approaches, even for scouting purposes, it’s too flat and without a hiding place
  • if your team makes progress on the East (hill) side, one TD may position hilmself on the cliff and fire down on the enemy, especially if there is only one base because from here one controls the approaches to it
  • this map may favor experienced campers : the hill is difficult to win and to get down from, and the plain is just a killing zone. So sometimes, the right side of the lake, where the village is located, may be an option. But it neverthless implies you have tanks to defend any attack from the plain or the hill.

Himmelsdorf :

  • if the opposite team is not a bunch of unicums, the real place to be is the street at the foot of the hill and the railway with at least three tanks including at least one heavy, not the hill since it’s difficult to shoot down hill : there is nothing but one or two difficult places to shoot from and the buildings mostly obstruct your line of sight. So if you’re tier V max, the main rule is : do NOT go to the castle/hill (simply send two tanks to prevent the enemy from reaching your back)
  • but if a very good team takes control of the hill, they can use it as scouts’ and snipers’ paradise. So starting at tier VI, send the maximum of tanks to the hill (a good advice from Claus Kellerman’s map stragegy video is to count the number of tanks on the hill and reinforce your team if they’re less numerous than the enemy). If you’re a beginner or simply under average, forget it
  • at low tiers, if your team doesn’t send at least two tanks (including one TD) to the railway, you’re going to lose because, if it’s not defended, the railway is an easy and fast way of penetrating deep in the back of the enemy position
  • if you choose to attack on the railway, always do it with caution, hiding as much as you can along the way. Because if there is a TD with a farther line of sight than you at the end, he’ll see you before you see him.

Ruinberg :

  • the key to victory lies in the city, so controling its streets with heavies and TDs in a peek-a-boom style is of paramount importance
  • nevertheless, at least approx. 5 tanks must take care of the Eastern side

Mines (Hill)) :

  • the central hill is the key because one can view everywhere from it while being hidden by the walls of the castle and the bushes. Try to get to it and hold it before the enemy : scouts and fast mediums should rush to it. But remember
  • the second key area (and this is not that obvious to beginners) is the passage between the two islands : you’ve go to hold it
  • the best attack strategy for both teams is to go right side, because on the left side, as clearly explained in Claus Kellerman’s video Map Tactics & Strategy Mines, once you’ve passed the middle of the map, there is no place to hide.
    Claus Kellerman also thinks this map is not balanced : according to him, spawning from the North gives you the hill 9 times out of 10 (and still too many Southerners try in vain to win the hill), while spawning from the South gives you perfect rock cover from the enmy, even from its artillery. So the good strategy on Mines, in his view, depends on which side one spawns from : North spawn => attack strategy, South spawn => camping strategy. I humbly don’t agree, having seen countless times Southerners getting to the hill first and retaining it, but maybe because I mostly play low tiers. But I do agree the key for Northerners is to get to the South West corner, from which they will try to shoot the Northern camping TDs, and to use their positions on the hill to snipe from above at the Northern campers (they’d better use peek-a-boom because firing reveals their silhouette on the hill)
  • don’t waste your time taking/holding the town if base isn’t located in it
  • always send one or (better) two tanks, including at least one heavy, to hold the narrow passage between the tower and the hill and train your TDs to watch that passage
  • only leave 2 tanks (TDs) to defend the base, not more and ask them to watch the central hill and the island for enemies and shoot at them when they in turn pop up to shoot. Those TDs should have some rocks in their vicinity to hide behind and relocate frequently.

Cliff :

  • having a tank at the top of the hill is an advantage only if its commander knows how to hide behind the firelight and peek-a-boom. This is also a good spot for scouting
  • if you spawn from the South, get a TD on the immediate right of the rock on the right above the spawning zone (in J5) : from there, he will be able to fire on the firelight hill and on any enemy tank trying to fire or invade from the center of the map at the foot of the hill (E5, E6). But beware, there is no obstacle to protect you, just a bush. The idea is to abuse the TD view range and load APCR or HE
  • another TD or two is to fire in the corridor on the West side.

Highway :

  • don’t be too many to go on the left side, the (right side) long run is the best bet
  • always leave at base at least 1 heavy and 2 TDs.

Steppes :

  • on the West side, try to reach the big rocks. If your team cannot send in time at least two heavies or TDs to them, then it’s better to snipe at the enemy from the small hills before the rocks
  • on the contrary, always send a minimum of three tanks (with at least two heavies) to the East side ravine and advance as far as possible into it. If you don’t, the enemy will and once they get out of the corridor, they’re in a position to easily wipe out your arties
  • if the enemy stays in the ravine on the East side of the map (especially in encouter mode, because the base is located there), it’s no use trying to get them from above because to fire on them you need more gun depression than you have, so you need to advance dangerouly or show the weak front under side of your hull. Also, as they are hidden from view, you don’t know their exact number and positions, so you might easily get killed by surprise. Instead, get into the ravine from one of its entries, advance cautiously on the right side sloped banks of the ravine and either wait for them from some distance to leave their position and ambush them or, if they don’t move at all, go ahead, spot them, send one tank to have a brawl with them from above and then, when they focuse on the attacking tank, shoot them from your position
  • with two fast and mobile tanks with a canon with huge rate of fire or good penetration (Pz. I C, M5 Stuart, Luchs, BT-7 Art., T67, M8 Hellcat etc.), use the old river bed, encrusted in the central plain, to scout and spot the enemy arties. In some best scenario cases, they may arrive undetected at the enemy base ...

Sand River :

  • do *not* use the dried up river bed to launch an attack : sniping at you from the river banks above is very easy and your gun elevation won’t be enough to fire on your opponents. Just keep a TD eye on that river bed
  • use the dunes to peek-a-boom
  • if you spawn from the north-west, very often your allies won’t send enough tanks to the north-east and a couple of fast enemies will sneak into your base and destroy your arties and possibly your TDs looking the other way
  • more guides :

Redshire :

  • the base is located in the very small valley between two small and steep hills, but the corridor between them is open at its two ends : instead of taking base immediately and trying to retain it at all costs, it is much more efficient to ask TDs to position themselves in the axe of the corridor and snipe while the heavies go over the hills and on their sides and try to kill the enemies at close distance
  • sniping spots : if spawning from the South, the fields immediately on your left (K4 to K7), the small hill on the Eastern border of the map (F0 and F9)
  • from both spawning points, a risky but rewarding path for attack is (this is, for once, an exception) the central road.

Ensk :

  • this map is one of the very rare exceptions to the "no-go-center" rules because its center is occupied by the town : all heavies — I mean ALL heavies — and a number of TDs should invade its narrower streets as soon as possible while sticking as close together as possible
  • the slower TDs should stay at the rear watch the road along the railway, another should watch the forest and a last one the road on the other limit of the map. They should pay attention, in the middle of the battle, to fast enemy tanks coming from their flanks
  • the scouts will try to reach the arties and the enemy TDs on the other side.

Lakeville :

  • don’t send more than 25% of your allies to the mountain pass (sometimes called the "canyon"). Two TDs with big guns and one heavy are generally enough (but at the same time, that’s a minimum) to prevent the enemy from geting through the pass. The struggle at the mountain often extends until the very end of a battle, which proves the battle’s result is not made there
  • the town, especially the area around the church, is the key to victory on this map : don’t camp outside it, encircle it and invade but only up till the center around the church. Because if you go too far, the enemy will shoot you at the very moment you reach the the outskirts of the city and come out in the open
  • SPGs with high shell arc should feel at home on this map so if you’re watching the pass, don’t stay motionless
  • always have one TD on the narrow central path between the lake and the moutain firing at the enemy tanks near the church or driving on the urban banks of the lake
  • other TDs or tanks with good long range guns should position themselves at the outskirts of the town.

Abbey :

  • contrary to the general rule, you can attack through the middle of the map (i.e. the houses) and should do so at low tiers (V and under), but remain hidden behind the village walls. Taking and holding the acropolis (abbey) and scouting from it is a clear advantage and at low tiers should be the fastest tanks’ job as soon as the battle starts
  • the narrow road along the river on the side of the map is a major way to attack, but to succeed, you must devote three to four tanks to it, including a mandatory long range tank destroyer and possibly an artie who will both kill the enemy tanks before they even reach a peek-a-boom position
  • but the twin path corridor on the other side of the map (lines 1 to 3) is the best way to attack, especially at high tiers, because it allows control over the center of the map through its many "windows" where bushes hide you and over both the ally and enemy bases. See Claus Kellerman’s Abbey map strategy video if you don’t agree. So the team should avoid sending a "lemming train" of tanks to the river.

El Hallluf :

  • in the sand dunes, never go far, remain far away from the middle of the dunes and shoot enemies in sniper mode
  • use the river bed only if you are very well armored
  • more guides :

Mountain Pass :

  • if spawning from the North, send 3 tanks on the left, including one fast medium who shall try to cross the river and position himself on the opposite side, his back poiting to the bridge. This way, your team will be able to fire on the enemy tanks from two directions, preventing them from advancing.

Overlord :

Empire’s Border :


  • don’t rely on player’s videos to choose your tank. In this matter, do not follow the advice of WoT community contributors, especially when they evaluate premium tanks — they’re compensated and sometimes paid to broadcast. Moreover, their gameplay has nothing in common with yours
  • as long as you haven’t played 2.000 or 3.000 battles, it is more useful to specialize in a type of tank (e.g. heavy tank) and then to grind through a line of this type (Soviet heavy tanks), rather than hopping from one type of tank to another one or — worse — from one line to another one
  • it is generally recommended to begin with heavy tanks (the KV-1 is probably the best heavy tank for a beginner) before moving to TDs and then scouts. Do not begin with scouts or artillery
  • that a tank is considered overpowered (OP) doesn’t mean it’s the best tank for you. So choose your OP tank wisely, test it and do not hesitate to sell it back if you don’t succeed in it a minimum.
    For more information, see our comprehensive list of OP tanks further down
  • that a tank is premium (i.e. for a fee) doesn’t mean it’s the best tank for you. The majority of premium tanks are not overpowered, but the percentage of OP tanks among premium tanks is higher than among normal tanks and this percentage is growing [12]. Fundamentally, premium tanks are just (more or less) rare and you need to learn how to play them. (Nearly) all premium tanks have a major weaknesss in order to counter balance their qualities. And for a lot of them (not all), a non premium (in other words, free) equivalent exists : for instance, the OP KV-220-2, compared to the KV-1 and the KV-1S, is more OP. But in the hands of a beginner, it is overall less efficient, mostly because of its fragile turret, which all experimented players target and shoot through (generally to lethal effect ...).
    For more information, read this : Guide : all on premium tanks. Yes, it is written in French (use Goggle Translate) and it dates from 2013. But it was comprehensive at the time and it’s to the point, easy to read and the point is premium tanks don’t get nerfed by Wargaming (players would stop buying them if Wargaming changed their perfomances) so their characteristics haven’t changed
  • play a tank you’re comfortable with. If you have played a tank dozens of times and read the guides about its gameplay but still don’t understand how to take advantage of it, just sell it.


There are three main resources that allow you to visualise in detail and through all angles any tank’s (effective) armor. Here, we’re not talking about a weak spots guide such as WoT Guru’s one (it’s the best one, by the way). We’re talking about much more detailed, complete apps.

For a not-so-limited yet quick and simple visualisation of armor, go to, click on Tanks > Full list in the upper left corner, then select a tank and click on the 3D Model tab to visualise the thickness of its amor and its efficiency through all angles. For instance, the tier X, British premium heavy tank FV215b (183) armor (above).

Tank Inspector (TI) is a free software you can download and install on your computer (Windows only). It is mainly used for inspecting — hence its name — tanks’ armor, i.e. getting a better understanding of their weak spots than Taugrim’s web site can allow. Two features makes it more customizable than its rivals :

  • you can specify the shell type (AP/APCR/HEAT/HE/HESH) and caliber of the gun firing on the tank, as shell normalization varies by shell type, and this enables you to see the effective armor values
  • Tank Inspector connects to your own account so it knows your tanks and their values.

In order to install the latest release, download it from the Smelly river Github page, unzip it, then look for Smellyriver.TankInspector.exe and double-click on it. One major drawback : it’s not updated regularly, so check out the last update date, and therefore some features may not work or the software may crash. More details about Tank Inspector (in French).

TI’s recent rival WoT Inspector has not just its Armor Inspector, but a lot of other features such as comparing two different tanks and including Blitz and console versions of WoT. Also, it’s got mobile versions for Android and iOS. But it’s only partially free and may not work on low bandwith connections.


Nearly everything you need to know about mods and other useful software — but it’s in French :

Good to have mods :

  • XVM (open source software) : shows the WR or recent WN8 of players and real-time damage done to enemy tanks (ok by me)
  • Aslain’s modpack : a pack comprising a limited number of "legal" mods, including XVM. Often recommended, but not by everyone. I generally prefer to play without it. For instance, it comprises hitskins, a mod showing tanks’ weak spots in battle (not ok by me, see why in these comments). Aslain’s modpack often brings a number of problems with it. For example, in version 1.3 of WoT, Aslain’s modpack had deactivated the "2" key : I couldn’t change the ammunition type !
  • Relhax Modpack, ex-OCM modpack (EU forum post). Includes XVM too
  • to know which mods in Aslain’s pack are really useful, watch Top 5 Mods To Help You Win More Games video by 13Disciple.

All mods have to be updated at each WoT major change of version. And given the frequency of WoT updates (approximately once every two weeks), tha’s a real pain the ... and one of the reasons why I don’t use mods.

Since November 2016, Wargaming has started building a fair-play (i.e. anti-cheats) policy. Here are WG posts on this policy, read them carefully :

Extracted from WG’s April 2019 post, here are the main mods which are banned :

  • « revealing the positions of enemies in a way not included in the vanilla client ». Such as :
    • « marking objects destroyed on the playing field, altering the display of shell flight tracers or calculating and displaying the position of enemy artillery with tracers, as well as those that keep spotted vehicles displayed, even when a player is not aiming at them and isn’t in their line of sight »
    • « making it easier to block an enemy’s shell by indicating their exact aiming point (for example, with a laser beam) » ("lazers" ; example)
  • « alerting you when spotted vehicles are reloading, including displaying an enemy’s reloading timer »
  • « auto-aim ("aimbots") — that provide more functionality than the "aim lock" in the vanilla client, including those that aim at the enemy’s weak spots, or at weakly armored vehicles/at enemy vehicles in general, and also fix the sight on the target behind an obstacle or calculate the lead instead of the player ».

Sanctions : if WG finds you’re using illegal mods :

  • first time : you get a warning and a 7 day account suspension (ban)
  • second time : permanent ban.

Note that those rules do not include mods that indicates enemy armor and weak points. For an example of such a mod, see Klaus Kellerman’s video WOT - Cheating, Pay To Win & Esports at 13:23, dated November 2018.

More mods :

NB 1 : for a long time Wargaming wasn’t banning auto-aim, neither de juro [13] nor de facto. Although aimbot mods are now officially banned, they remain widely used (see links to Sir Foch’s video infra). Examples of aimbots include Ogre and Shaytan : see Gox WoT Mods : Aimbots.

NB 2 : a lot of guides and 95% of forumers pretend cheating is impossible in World of Tanks because, they say, it is server based and the server can’t be hacked. Another way to say that is "everything you can’t see cannot be used".

But in March 2015, the French blog WoT France published a post titled "World of triche" (World of cheating), describing in detail the different ways to quasi-cheat or cheat allright. On February 2016, Rita Sobral, on her quite-respected blog Status Report, analysed a replay sent to her and acknowledged it to be from a player using an "aimbot". She then wrote that WG is "is seeking to fight illegal mods". And in March 2016, QuickyBaby, one of the quasi-official Wargaming WoT professional players, issued a video recognising that some modpack aiming assistance (aim assist mod or aimbot) are a cheat and are "illegal" (aka will get your account deleted) according to WG. In August 2017, Sobral re-confirmed aimbots in WoT are for real and pointed at numerous videos showing the problem. But she also re-confirmed Wargaming doesn’t care at all. Other players have published videos similar as QuickyBaby’s one on cheating.

Well, the game being server based is a reality (shots calculation and their results are done only on the server, and a random number generator (RNG) adds some random to your shots’ results ; also, you can’t make your tank really invisible), but that still leaves a lot of information available to the client software, i.e. on your PC (such as the location of the enemy tank, its speed, its direction, its type, when it has last shot), and that information, connected to a database of tanks characteristics (weak spots, time between shots ...), can be used to build cheating mods.

So cheating is possible using certain mods, especially the free Gox WoT Mod pack and for a fee (14 USD per month) Warpack (see below). The cheat mods include, for example, Tundra Mod, which removes from your view trees and houses that can be fired through, Lazers, which tells you where enemy guns are pointing i.e. whether they can fire on your tank [14], and, most important, mini-map showing destroyed objects — therefore indicating enemy tanks that haven’t yet been detected — and a number of aimbots (such as AimBot-Shaytan or AutoAim by SAE) which automatically drive your gun reticule on the enemy tank weak spots and sometimes even give lead to the target (locked aiming from WoT doesn’t move around searching for best weakspots like it does here, it stays locked in the center of the target). What makes Warpack "interesting", so to say, is its mods go through a remote server which gives the information back to the player making the detection tricky.

NB 3 : Up until March 2016, WG EU seemed not to have any problem with these mods. Apparently, only laser pointers were supposed to be banned but since the mods are on the client (your PC) and WG does not scan your PC for them, they can’t be detected. The risks of course when you use such mods is to get viruses with them, to see your game client slow down or to have your computer crash when you play WoT.

This is not to say that all cheat mods are that much effective (it’s mostly aimbots which really are, as can be seen in this French replay), but nevertheless any beginner should know about their existence since, again, they are de facto not banned from the game and do seem to remain used (less than before, to be honest). In 2017, some players were saying that about one fifth of WoT players were using cheat mods, and that most clans exacted their members to use a set number of them. If you take into account that in January and February 2019, in public battles, 4 players out of 15 in average were clan members, then ...

Apart from mods, another cheat exists in WoT : bots. These for-a-fee programs drive your tank automatically while at the same time emulating a human player (very) basic behavior. They are de jure prohibited by Wargaming (see rule 4.07 of the game). Most popular (sigh...) are dniwebot (from Warpack), Cyber Tank and Tankleader.
According to forum threads and surveys, bots account for less than 10% of the "players".
According to Cyber Tank’s web site, they are "safe" from WG’s detection programs until tier V. The main aim of bots is to farm credits and grind tanks without any pain. While giving your account a bad win rate (WR) of 40 to 45%.
In order to prevent his bot-using-account from getting banned by Wargaming, according to all testimonies about botting, one should buy in-game virtual property, the most useful being premium time and premium tanks.

As an ex-boter puts it on Reddit [15] :
wotbotthrowaway : « Reports came a lot. If enough people reported it then the game automatically penalized all credits and xp earned for that battle. I never received a ban on either account though I did receive a harsh email from WG once. [...] »
tg110e5 : « My theory is since some people spend so much money on this game, WG doesn’t want to ban someone who spends 100-200$ a month on WoT, they only ban the cheap cheaters. »
wotbotthrowaway : « My original intention was to just use the bot to get myself a T95E2 quickly and then never boot it up again but when I saw how quickly it unlocked tanks and how much silver it made, it was honestly too much temptation for me to overcome. I thought "oh the E4 is on track now. Maybe I’ll just use it to get enough silver and xp to unlock that on the main." Then it was "well I’m not that far from the T-54 now and oh man the Kranvagn looks great maybe I’ll just bot the whole swedish line." It’s a very slippery slope that is encouraged by WoT’s hellish stock grinds. [...]
The way WoT is set up it’s either invest time and money into playing the game with a premium account or spend a bit on a bot that will get you money and xp while you do other things. I feel like anything that WG could do that would make botting less appealing (make stock grinds better, rework gold rounds, actually look at balancing the game) would cut into the things which make them the most money. »
w0nk0 : « The blame is all on WG. They could easily identify bots with a little AI of their own, but they choose not to. They choose to effectively allow botting. »
wotbotthrowaway : « I don’t remember my exact WR before but I want to say it was 51-53% and it fell to 46% [...] If you care about stats at all then you should never bot. It absolutely destroys WN8 and win percentage. »

Another cheat is buying accounts. Experienced player LemmingRush shows a quasi-proof of that on his Youtube channel.

Some gamers consider there is a fourth cheat in WoT, a totaly legal one this time : premium (so-called "gold") ammo. True, it’s cheap enough to be called that.

Recently (April 2020), one sees more and more (illegal) mods allowing to see and fire through walls ("transparency").

Sources for cheat mods and bots :


About the (controversial) matchmaking in World of Tanks

Of course, you can read the (very technical and boring) article about the matchmaker on the WoT Wiki or Wargaming’s official stance, but let’s summarise them :

  • the tier of your vehicle is the only factor used when determining which vehicles it is possible for you to be matched against
  • the matchmaking in WoT consists in the following : the MM on tier 3 is -1+2, so you can face tier 2 as lowest and tier 5 as max. Then on tier 4 and up you will get the standard +/-2. However light tanks can have different matchmaking (MM), the wiki clearly states which these are.

Let’s say loud and clear : in WoT’s matchmaking system, player’s skill doesn’t count. The reality is approximately only one out of 7 to 8 games has relatively equal matchmaking, i.e. where player skills are roughly equal. At tiers 8 to 10, the situation may seem better : according to unicum player QuickyBaby, « at higher tiers [...] one in five games is simply uncarryable ». But that’s from a very good player, not a below average one. I can personaly certifiy that for below average players, high tier battles are as frustrating as in low tiers. In other words : if you’re a beginner at WoT or an under average player, whatever the tier, you will be crushed most of the time.

World of Tanks is a team game, so it’s the sum of each team players’ skills which, more often than not, dictates the outcome. Therefore, even if you’ve made a lot of progress in terms of performance in the game (generally mesured by statistics such as win rate (WR), WN8 etc.), you have very little chance of winning by your own personal skills.

Just to show how difficult it is to play against matchmaking’s odds (i.e. when you get a bad team and fight against a good enemy team), watch super player Lemming Rush play three battles very intelligently but nevertheless to no avail.

This situation is worsened for below average players by the fact that as World of Tanks ages (the game launched in 2010), and as demonstrated by player QuickyBaby (see Intro above), it attracts less new players (commonly refered to as "tomatoes"). So the proportion of experienced players has grown to the point where an occasional or under average player is highly disadvantaged in the game because he no longer encounters any "tomato" but mostly experienced to very experienced players.

Being so helpless can become very frustrating, especially when you encouter a losing streak. And the thing is : Wargaming does it on purpose — a lot of actors in the gaming industry conciously create player’s frustration and use it.

According to Keith Stuart, the Guardian’s games and technology journalist, in video game design, « frustration has been there from the beginning [...] Fustration is rarely an accident – not to good game designers. Those guys know what they’re doing » [16]. He cites Mike Bithell, the Bafta-nominated creator of platforming game, Thomas Was Alone : « I feel like frustration might be a side effect of compelling games. Whenever I’ve liked a ’frustrating’ game, it’s not been for the frustration, it’s been for the moment of success which follows. In that sense, I guess frustration is contextually important, as the memory of a frustrating moment makes the win far more satisfying. »

Keith Stuart adds : « All games are systems of abstraction – they remove elements of reality in order to get to the kernel of fun. [...] In games, we just want to get to the fun. So maybe frustration is a failure of abstraction – it’s when a game doesn’t quite remove us from the labour of activity ».

Back to Wargaming and WoT : why, would you ask, frustrate the player base, especially since a lot of players (apart from the best ones, of course) regularly ask in forums for the matchmaking system to be fixed ? Because that induces players into :

  • a) playing more to try to get out of that frustrating losing streak (and the longer you play a free-to-play game, the more you spend on extra features and special objects)
  • b) buying a premium account, which allows you to lose less credits when you lose battles
  • c) buying overpowered (OP) premium tanks, which allows you to win more often
  • d) and going to tier X, the most expensive one but the only one where you won’t face an enemy above your own tier [17].

The absence of skill as a criteria in the matchmaking system remains, to me and a lot of players of all levels, the major drawback of the game. But it’s clearly part of the design of WoT. I nevertheless hope this guide will help you lessen the frustration :-) See especially rule 71. above.

Overpowered vehicles (OP) : a comprehensive list

Underneath you will find a list of tanks which are obviously "above average" (as the British say) — overpowered (OP) as they say in the game and in the forums. Strictly speaking, an OP tank is a tank in which most players (and that includes bad and average players) do better in terms of win ratio (WR) than their average.

You will notice there is a huge pool of overpowered vehicules in tiers II to V, most of them non premium (i.e. free). So if you’re not a good player, you can remain in those tiers — which, remember, cost much less in game credits and real money than high tiers — and still have a wide range of OP tanks from which to choose in order to better your stats.

You’ll also notice the proportion of OP vehicules is much higher among premium tanks. That was not the case until the beginning of 2017 when Wargaming started seeing its player base eroding and started looking for a way to allow them to fare better in the game with less effort while retaining the old players ... and keeping the cash coming. More OP premium tanks was clearly the answer.

This list relies on statistics firstly [18] (see sources hereunder) and gamers’ consensus secondly. It is not 100% comprehensive but tries to be and I regularly update it. Vehicles retired by Wargaming are not listed — although I may cite some famous ones in the notes.

Now pay attention : being OP or not is largely a question of definition. There are, roughly, two definitions :

  • OP = tank in which a sample of players (on all WoT servers, or at least one big server, ideally the Russian one) achieve better WR than their own personal WR in Schust March 2018 stats. This definition eliminates the classic bias of a tank being the favorite vehicule of good players. Although it now dates a lot, I haven’t foud anything as neutral and complete at the same time
  • or OP = tank having among the best stats taken from a sample of good players on all WoT servers. This definition has one big drawback : it relies too much on players’, not tanks, level/WR, that’s why I only consider the tanks ranking among the best ones and I add other sources of information (forums, videos by very good players).

Here, because I’m writing a guide for newbies and under average players, I have chosen to use data relying as much as possible on the first definition. It tells you which tank will make you rank better 95% of times for sure. It has one main drawback : this type of stats dates from February 2018. So, for recent tanks, we have to rely on the second definition.

Test OP tanks and see which ones you like and are successful in. Use them as much as you can. One should use the best tanks, period. But remember : not all OP tanks are for you — in fact, a huge number of them are not suitable for beginners. Or they may not suit your play style.

Warning :

  • as I already said, the original basis for this list of OP tanks was Schust’s March 2018 remarquable stats pack
  • to verify that a tank is OP or simply test it, don’t try it stock, but with all modules upgraded — the gun first and foremost — and a crew with at least 75% experience
  • even the most OP premiums are not "automatic win" buttons. If you are crap, you will do just a little better than in other tanks — in other words, in average you’ll be a little less crap. No tank will turn a 48% WR player into a 55% player, more like it will get him towards 49%
  • some tanks may seem overpowered in the game or on videos, but when you look at their stats or try them, you may be very disappointed. This is because they’re not really OP, they just suit the play style of very good players : such is the case of the Hetzer when used in brawler mode. Its armor looks strong : it’s sloped and it bounces some shells. And its HE shells may look like they have a devastating effect. But all this is because its driver knows perfectly well how to position his hull and on which weak spot of the enemy tank facing him to shoot.

NB : I don’t mention OP tanks taken out of the game [19] in the text but in the footnotes.

Tier I

Tier II

  • lights :
    • Pz. II. OP whatever the player’s rank but credit-greedy because without gold ammo you won’t penetrate higher tier opponents
    • Pz. 35 (t)
    • M2 Light. Use it with the Hispano-Suiza Birgikt 20 mm auto-cannon, which does a lot of damage or the powerful 37mm gun that hits very hard for its tier, considering its short reload time. It’s so damn fast that, when equipped with this burst-firing auto-cannon, it behaves very closely to the Pz. I C

      The M2 Light is clearly OP, even more than the PzIC, and all the more so as the player’s rank increases. As for the PzIC, many high tier players use this tank to "seal club" beginners
    • T-45 (premium tank offered by WarGaming in its18th anniversary). Clearly OP but you have to know how to play it, because it’s rather slow for a light tank and its gun is not that good. Its armor is the key, in fact
    • T2 Light (premium) : paper armor but awfully fast and with a burst-gun which never stops. So OP it is and a nasty surprise because you won’t encouter it often
    • The Chinese VAE Type B (official name : Vickers Mk. E Type B) when equipped with the 40 mm Pom-Pom gun or the 45mm 20K. The VAE may be OP, but its paper thin armor (apart from the armor on its second turret) makes it a one-or-two-shot. Also, its guns have a huge dispersion (i.e. one cannot even play it as a TD). So unless you’re a very good player and you master peek-a-boom tactics (see rule 9. above), don’t play it

      During some time, VAE Type B was a premium tank. Then it became a standard tank again. Note that his Soviet alter ego T-26 (it has exactly the same look) has a lower success rate which does not really make it OP [20]
    • 7TP. I am not 100% sure it is OP (especially with its troll armor) but it looks like it slightly is (excellent damage per minute (DPM) and mobility). Again, a tank rather suited for experienced players, not beginners
  • mediums :
    • I-Go/Chi-Ro
    • M14/41 : a good players’ favorite in lower tiers. The mobility of the M14/41 is relatively low so don’t expect to get anywhere fast. Instead, search for positions where you only show your turret to the enemy (so called "hull down positions") as the front of the turret is among the strongest in tier II [21]. At the end of the battle, take risks. According to WOTINFO’s Nerf barometer (March 2020), it may be the best medium at tier II, so it’s probably OP, and surely in good hands
  • TDs :
    • Pz.Jag. I. Statistically OP, even in poor players’ hands. But it has nearly no armor, turns ever so slowly and on urban maps such as Himmelsdorf (which at these tiers happens one out of three times), its gets overrun by auto-cannons too frequently, especially PzIC, M2 Lights and M14/41
    • AT-1.

      This Russian TD is best equipped with the 57 mm ZiS-8S gun
    • T-26G FT (very similar to AT-1)
    • FT AC
    • UC 2-pdr
  • arties :

Tier III

  • lights :
    • Pz. I C.

      This OP little tank is a favorite with most players at low tiers, especially with good and very good players : it is extremely fast (one of the fastest tanks in the game), highly maneuverable and relatively well-armored for its tier [22]. What’s more, its top gun is a rapid-firing machine gun that holds 5 8-round bursts in its drum, penetrating most of its opponents. The main drawback of the Pz. I C is it’s difficult to play when you’re a newbie because you need to rein in its speed, to master the "circle of death" (circling your opponent faster than his turret can turn), to know when and how to use auto aim and above all to know how to flank (i.e. how to use slopes and walls to hide you before you get to the side or the rear of a TD or a heavily armored enemy —especially French tier II to IV tanks). The gun’s dispersion is horrible, so sniping is out of the question. Last but not least, you’ve got to keep moving all the time. The PzIC is fun to play, sure, but don’t play it too early !
    • Pz. T 15 (premium).

      Rare, under rated and as awfully OP as the FCM 36 Pak 40. Incredibly fast, correctly armored [23] and with an excellent view range, it’s one of the most OP tanks in the game, though it penetrates nearly nothing in tier IV matches. But same problem as the Pz. I C : to have good results with it, you need to master its speed, the "circle of death" (and its turning radius is not as good as the Pz. I c one), auto aim and flanking. This is no tank for a beginner
    • MTLS-1G14 : awfully OP because of its DPM associated with good mobility and armor (premium, a gift tank to some players, press accounts and WG staff accounts, never sold)
    • Pz. 38 (t) : loved by (and most efficient in the hands of) good players and unicums
    • M22 Locust
    • T-127 (premium) : awfully OP (especially its armor, one of the best of its tier) and loved by good players and unicums but difficult to play and with a small gun so targeting the weak spots and using (a lot of) premium rounds are necessary ...
    • Toldi III (premium, a gift tank in fact) : OP only for players under 50% WR
    • BT-SV. Beware, it’s not that easy to play
    • Cruiser Mk. II, if and only if equipped with the 3.7-inch Howitzer gun.

      For the Cruiser II equipped with this Howitzer gun, most tanks are a one-shot. OK, it’s OP (52,32% WR at WotInfo Nerf Barometer), but remember : its armor is awfully weak so you’ve got to be very good at peek-a-boom. And experienced players do better in it than beginners
    • BT-7 artillery (premium).

      With its 76mm howitzer, the BT-7 art. can derp ambush enemy tanks like the T67
    • T-70 : only slightly OP and only for very bad or very good players
    • the quite fast Cruiser Mk. IV, when equipped with the QF 40 mm Mk. VI Bofors gun, a slow but damn effective at close range autocannon (but beware the poor armor).

      As OP as the Pz.IC but not as easy to play. Best in the hands of very good players, not average ones
    • AMX 38.

      OP only for players under 55% WR. Must be played like a heavy because of its armor and also, it’s so slow
    • Pz. II J (premium) : nicknamed the Mini Maus, the Pz. II J is in fact a heavy tank due to its insane armor and very slow speed. It clearly is one of the most OP tanks in this game and like all premium (bought) tanks, Wargaming obviously does not intend to nerf it (tone down its perfomances) — they even buffed it in 2017. When it’s top tier and used by an experienced player, it is very difficult to defeat. But it’s not a first line tank and it’s not invincible at all : it is so slow that TDs with APCR and artillery can easily shell it [24]. It is awfully expensive to buy (100 euros) and to play (it litterally eats your credits) and very rarely available for sale [25]. The Pz. II J is the perfect example of the pay-to-win tendency of the game. According to some players, it may become boring to play [26]. Also, it cannot penetrate Matilda, Valentine and AMX 38, and it’s become less powerful since Wargaming introduced the French line
    • then there’s the case of the M3 Stuart. Surely it is favored by lots of average to good players for its speed, quite correct armor for a light tank and rate of fire. But in terms of statistics, its OPness is not really obvious since this tank benefits only players under 50% WR and only so slightly
  • mediums :
    • M2 Medium especially equipped with the 75 mm Howitzer "derp" gun. It is OP only for players above 52% WR and shoudn’t be played without a good practice of peek-a-boom because its armor is weak. According to that forum thread, one of seal-clubbers’ favourites, but doomed when facing higher tier tanks
    • Somua S35 : enormously OP
    • Pz. S35 (premium).

      The Pz. S35 is even more OP than its French original the Somua S35 — probably the 3rd most OP tank in the game. Its only (slight) drawback is its small caliber canon, which needs a lot of APCR shells to be really efficient (let’s say a dozen instead of the usual recommended 3)

      Above, results from a battle in which there were two Pz. S35, one on each side : at the end of the battle, the two best scorers are ... the two Pz. S35 !
    • Grosstraktor - Krupp (or G-Traktor) (premium)
  • TDs [27] :
    • Renault UE 57.

      The second smallest tank in the game and one of the lightest is also very OP, even — and that should be noted — in the hands of bad players. Being a tank with one of the lowest profiles in the game, it has excellent camouflage values. Drawbacks ? Nearly no armor and a horrible gun depression
    • Valentine AT.

      Use the 6 pdr gun if you plan to use this tank as a sniper, and the 3.7 inch gun otherwise
    • Ikv 72. Beware : the small Swedish TD may be OP but is not *that* OP, and its sloped armor is worth nothing
    • Marder II.

      One of the most often used TDs in the game
    • M3G FT.

Tier IV

  • lights :
  • heavies :
    • Pz. B2 (premium) (full name : Pz.Kpfw. B2 740 (f)).

      One of the most OP tanks in the game, if not the most OP of all with its heavy preferential matchmaking (it only sees tier IV battles (!), while its brother the B1 encounters tier V opponents) [28]. If you encounter one, shoot its weak spots — nothing else. The main one is the rounded, protruding part on the left side of the upper front glacis (UFG). Otherwise, you’re dead
    • Matilda. Beware : altough very heavily armored, it is very slow, has a below average gun for a heavy tank and all experienced tankers know how to get rid of it because it’s been in the game for a very long time
  • TDs :
    • T40 : OP, especially for players above 50% WR. According to the WoT wiki, « the T40 is very versatile and easy to play. It can fight at any range as long as you know how to avoid getting hit. Good at sniping but with an extremely poor gun depression ». But quite slow
    • Alecto (OP only in the hands of good players above 50% WR)
    • T-28E with F-30 (premium). A very efficient TD, handicapped by a rather average speed and a poor gun depression.

Tier V

  • lights :
    • Type 64 (premium). A very fast light with a punch : very fast rate of fire with decent penetration and excellent at hit and run and flanking tactics. OP for everyone
  • mediums :
  • heavies [29] :
    • KV-220-2 (premium). So OP ... But watch your turret’s cheeks !
    • KV-1S.

      The better the player, the more overpowered this tank proves to be. It has the mobility of a medium but very poor view range. Warning 1 : if you’re not a good player, don’t equip it with the fearsome but inaccurate 122 mm howitzer (on the image above), choose the fast-firing 85 mm and load it with APCR. Warning 2 : the upper front plate and the turret (especially its cheeks) are weaks spots, so don’t play it as a front line heavy tank, but rather as a heavy supporting tank/close range sniper. Note the gun depression is not very good. Do practice peek-a-boom tactic and armor angling and try to hide the lower front plate. If you’re a newbie and interested in this heavy tank, do watch MarkGFL’s excellent video about it
    • Churchill III (Russian, premium version of the Churchill) (OP only for players under 55% WR)
    • Excelsior (a heavier, premium version of the Churchill)
  • TDs :
    • T67.

      Its armor is so thin and its speed so high (61 km/h) that it’s not to be used as a classic stationary sniper TD. It is OP for players above 50% WR. It got nerfed in 2017, so although it remains OP, it is much less used nowadays
    • SU76F GT
    • S35 CA, nicknamed the "Bathtub". Overpowered when in good hands (starting at 49% WR, not under) because of the fragility of its armor
    • AT 2 : very heavily armored, very slow, to be played like a heavy tank
  • arties : leFH (its real name is 105 leFH18B2).

    This premium arty has been retired from the shop but may be given as special awards during specials and events, as well as sometimes appearing as a special offer in the premium shop, but generally only as a freebie for a package with the highest gold offers. It has a unique characteristic : when in danger, the leFH may be played very effectively in what is called "TD mode" : you switch out of arty vision mode, you use your gun as near-paper-armor heavy tank destroyer and you just one-shot every opponent coming close to you !

Tier VI

  • lights : the premium T-50-2 was massively given as a gift to old players (its first version was registered at tier V). Its indecent speed (up to 72 km/h) and its ability to withstand a few shots make it an excellent scout. Probably OP, looking at its WOTinfo stats, and QuickyBaby and the Russian unicum skill4ltu both confirm
  • mediums :
    • T-34-85M (premium).

      The 34-85M is the Swiss knife in World of Tanks : its gun is quite good without being too powerful, its speed and manoeuverability are decent, its sloped armor works well
    • T-34-85 Rudy (premium)
    • Cromwell.

      A typical unicum’s tank : poor armor, very fast, very manoeuverable, good gun with high DPM, made for flanking
    • Cromwell B (premium) : same qualities as the Cromwell, even faster
    • Pudel (a Polish, better Panther) (premium)
  • heavies : O-I : less OP than its predecessor O-I Exp. [30]
  • TDs :
    • M18 Hellcat : nerfed in 2014, stats make it look like it remains OP if you’re a good player but nobody’s playing it nowadays, so it’s more probable most players stopped playing it after its nerf and the stats only reflects its past perfomance
    • SU-100Y (premium)

      This "glass cannon" was very marginally OP, and only if you were an average or under average player. Personnaly, my WR in it is much worse than my average WR so I don’t really recommand it. The SU-100Y has a devastating 130mm gun. It is also quite mobile for its size, but unfortunately has next to no armor to cover its massive profile (but some pool of hit points so you can take at least two shots from the front). Must be played as a (very) long range TD because it has no cammo at all. Definitely not as brawler. Don’t come close (approx. less than 200 meters) to the enemy. The SU-100Y is no game changer
  • arties : M44.

    This arty is a rare case of OP vehicle, since it is OP only with players below 50% WR. M44 is THE recommended arty for begginers.

Tier VII

  • lights :
    • AMX 13 57 GF. It’s been somewhat "nerfed" — its performances downgraded — beginning of 2018 but remains totally OP in the hands of good players according to lots of testimonies
    • the Russian LTG is nearly OP in average to good players’ hands. You can’t consider it OP but with its speed (max. 63 km/h) and very low profile (and therefore good camouflage value), it makes an excellent passive scout. With its quite good gun, it also makes a good « flat assassin »
  • mediums : A-44
  • heavies :
    • T29 : the Hull-Down King.

      With its extremely well-armored turret, the T29 is invincible when placed in a hull-down position and facing tanks of its tier. Only artillerie can really threaten it then. It also has awsome gun depression (- 9°) and the gun (not the stock one of course, the 90 or 105 mm one) is powerful and well-handled. OP and one of the best tanks of its tier. Watch Taugrim’s, Straiker’s and Lemming Rush’s guides (videos) to learn more about it
    • IS-2 (IS-2 Berlin) (premium)
    • IS-2M (premium)
    • VK 45.03 (premium) : its stats say it’s OP but there is some controversy about that. It plays a bit like a cross between a medium and a TD
    • IS-2 (Chinese version)
  • TDs [31] :
    • E25 (premium, nicknamed Cockroach).

      Typically a unicum’s tank, it’s small, has a low profile, is very mobile and gifted with a quick rate of fire. OP only for players over 50% WR. This tank was was removed from the in-game tech tree at the end of 2014 and from the gift shop shortly afterwards. Afterward it has appeared in the shop three times for a very short period (its last appearance being in March 2020) and could be awarded from "large boxes" during the 2019 holiday event
    • ISU-122S (premium) : only marginally OP
    • AT 15A
    • SU-122-44 (premium) : only slightly OP, should be used as a brawler, not as a TD
    • Super Hellcat.

      Essentially a pre-nerf Hellcat, with its mobility restored and moved up a tier, this gift tank [32] is the fastest tier 7 vehicle in the game. Quite probably OP
    • AT 7 : clearly OP, whatever the player’s WR
    • SU-100M1.

      Since it got buffed at the beginning of 2018, this Russian TD has become a brawler and an OP one with its impressive, sloped frontal armor
    • T-34-2G FT. Only slightly OP
  • arties : AMX 13 F3 AM.

    This arty is another rare case of OP vehicle, since it is OP only with players under 50% WR. Fast and with a very quick rate of fire (for an arty)


  • lights :
    • ELC EVEN 90 (premium). But beware : as the WoT wiki says, « it is not suitable for inexperienced players ». So ... how should one play it ? There’s a very good debate about it in this forum thread
    • Panhard EBR 75 (FL 10) (premium). The EBR 75 is a very fast (80 kmh) armored car (this new concept appeared in WoT EU public battles in January 2019, see intro) equipped with a 75 mm gun with a two shell magazine. Apparently OP but (only in very experienced hands). Pay-to-win according to QuickyBaby
    • LT-432 (premium).

      This Soviet light is more a hybrid between a light and a medium. Very fast but bigger than most scouts at his battle tiers, the LT-432 must be used in active scouting (always moving) rather than in passive scouting (immobile) mode. Rather OP with a 54.97% WR according to WotInfo Nerf Barometer. Very effective when working ridge lines because of its gun depression. Pay-to-win according to QuickyBaby
  • mediums [33] :
  • heavies :
  • Bisonte C45 : this Italian heavy is possibly OP, but it’s too new to be sure. It comes equipped with a 3-round autoreloader, excellent gun depression and strong turret armor [34]
  • TDs. There are very few clearly (statistically) overpowered tank destroyers in tier VIII :
    • TS-5 : this premium TD is somewhat OP in a good player’s hands.

      OK, it has a two big disadvantages : it’s slow and its traverse speed is awful, so fast tanks are a big trouble for that heavy TD : you’ll have trouble shooting them and you mustn’t let them flank you. Also, its gun is not very accurate. But QuickyBaby’s words in a November 2019 video, although he doesn’t say "overpowered", are clear : « I took a look at the statistics : this one has the best win ratio of any freely available tier 8 tank destroyer. [...] The average win ratio of this tank is actually 52%. [...] incredible rate of fire [...] incredible standard penetration ». And what’s more, it’s a good credit earner. In higher tiers battles, camp. But beware : it can be boring to play, it nearly never is a game changer and despite its armor, it’s not easy to use as a brawler
    • ISU-152 K. It’s too early for statistics so we can’t tell yet it’s officially OP but roughly, it’s the ISU-152 back with the BL10 gun which made it interesting and that was taken away by Wargaming. But now they made it a premium (approx. 40 USD). Typical pay-to-win Wargaming strategy. You may prefer the free ISU 152, whose best gun has less penetration but better depression. The K’s gun penetration is monstruous but the tank is unwieldy, has poor armor and the gun accuracy at long range is not perfect. Nevestheless, if correctly aimed, it generally eats between 50 to 80% of the opponent’s pool of hits points — which is to say that, if the enemy in your sight has less than 50% left of its hp, he’s a potential one-shot. Not to be used as a brawler
    • WZ-120-1-G FT (premium).

      Very powerful gun but with mediocre accuracy (so not to be used as a long range sniper), very sloped upper front plate with decent thickness, good mobility, good camouflage values and high view range, can even brawl at the end of the battle ... This Chinese TD is clearly OP
    • the new Italian GSOR 1008 is very probably OP. QuickyBaby does not say the word but means it : « an absolute monster », that’s what he says about it. NB : this tank plays much more like a medium tank than a true tank destroyer, while being fast and equipped with a 4-round autoloader.
    • AMX Cda 105 (premium) : too slightly OP to be mentioned ? QuickyBaby loves its gun depression, which allows it to work ridge lines with deadly effectiveness
    • the premium TD Rheinmetall Skorpion G is not really OP (see its statistics, they betray the quasi-total lack of armor [35]), but having played it, I have to say that in the hands of an average to very good player, it does a good job — but only in such hands. In other words : perfect knowledge of heavies’ weak spots and sniping positions on the map plus mastering the medium-like gameplay are crucial here. It’s not OP in my opinion : it doesn’t make my own WR better, it makes it worse by 1 point. By the way, it’s also a very good credit maker. Here are some videos to get better with the Skorpion G : How to play Skorpion G Part 1 and Part 2 by CrazyMoldavian (note how CrazyMoldavian pushes on heavies close which have just fired and have a long reload time ; also he recommends shooting to track enemies), a replay (note how the guy nearly always goes backwards into his sniping positions, allowing him to get back to cover more quickly, and it’s also justified by the fact that the Skorpion G’s rear armor is as good as irs front), Top Spots Skorpion G Part 1 - 6 Maps, other sniping position videos on Sand Dunes, on Steppes, on Mines, on Minsk, on El Halluf, on Glacier or on Malinovka
    • same ambiguity for the other Rheinmetall in the game, the Rhm.-Borsig Waffenträger, which is loved by good players : in spite of its stats, and though it got nerfed, it remains dangerous in the hands of medium to high level players
    • same ambiguity for the SU-130PM (premium).

      It has similar characteristics and performances to those of the Skorpion G so we can list it here, altough we don’t have real stats for it. Its alpha [36] is slightly better than the Skorpion G’s one and its camouflage twice better but it’s much slower. But it doesn’t make my own WR any better, leaving it just the same
    • and same ambiguity again for the JagdPanther II. Its stats do not prove any OPness but it’s efficient when played by good players.

Tier IX

  • lights [37]
  • mediums :
    • E 50. Its fast firing 8.8 cm gun is perhaps the best at this tier. OP only when played by players over 50% WR. Here’s Iron Hidex’s demonstration of how to play it
    • Char Futur 4 (premium).

      Can be obtained using expedition tokens earned from Frontline and Steel Hunter 2020 missions. A very fast tank with a 4 shot clip (and a 40 seconds reload time !). A sort of Bat Chat but may also be played as sniper (it has very good passive spotting values). Probably OP
  • heavies :
  • TDs : Object 263 : nerfed, difficult to play but still OP.

Tier X

Sources for this overpowered tanks list :

Guides for scouting/spotting

Advice to beginners : do NOT start with scouts, wait ’till you’ve got a thousand battles behind you. Otherwise your WR will suffer.

Since the following guides on how to use scouts are very good, I will not write a complete, special guide for scouting.

Here are, extracted mostly from the first guide hereunder, the really important rules to become a good scout :

  • you don’t need to be a light tank in order to scout. Medium tanks and even fast tank destroyers (typically Hellcats and T-67s) can act as scouts too
  • as long as enemy locations are known, there is no need to scout. If your mediums and heavies are in the midst of engaging enemy tanks, and red dots are already lighted up, then just be patient and sit quietly in the base. When all the red dots disappear, and your team is starved for intel, that’s when you’d serve your team the most as a scout. That usually happens toward mid to late game, after half the team is dead
  • there are three roles a scout can play :
    • the observer : it’s the most efficient one and at the same time the easiest one. You can stop, and hide, and observe and provide more useful intelligence than rummaging through the enemy’s base for a lifetime of 5 seconds. The key points in this observation scouting are :
      • to know your map very well
      • to reach your position and hide *before the enemy* shows up. So only use the fastest scout in your tier
      • to position yourself hidden at a hilltop or a road crossing
      • to NOT shoot (see of rule 33. above)
    • the spotter (also called passive scouting) : sneak up from behind, from the side, from beneath a hill, from behind a building, etc. Use cover wisely and take a peek in. As soon as you spot the enemy, back out and hide behind somewhere safe where you can’t be hit. Let artillery do the work. As soon as the red blip disappears, peek in again, then back out, out of sight. Rinse and repeat, never engaging the enemy yourself
    • the rushing scout (also called active spotting) : if you decide to rush, don’t approach the enemy base head on. Always approach from one side of the map, and sweep to the other side [42]. For a perfect example, see how Russian unicum skill4ltu does it
  • at the start of the battle, rule 51. (see above) is of paramount important for scouts : if you go just a little bit too far, you’ll suddenly find yourself into enemy territory and fired on by two to three enemies simultaneously = an easy death and no credits. Instead, surf the ridge line at the middle of the map
  • auto-aim is your friend : use it (right-click the enemy and go around him in circles)
  • equiping your scouting tank : it’s most important to have the best radio, binoculars (+25% view range but effective only when stationary) or coated optics (+10% view range only, but effective also when on the move), camo net (which is not that necessary if you have camo skills activated) and a small repair pack (number 5 on keypad)
  • crew skills : camouflage, sixth sense (this skill allows you to know when you’ve been spotted).

Recommended guides/tutorials for scouting :

Special SPG/artillery corner

- 1. Advice to beginners : do NOT play artie before you’ve got a thousand battles under your helm. Or your win ratio will suffer badly.

- 2. Crew : use your credits to bring gunner and commander at 75% minimum. Otherwise, you’ll miss most of your shots.

- 3. Do not miss. When using parabolic fire, take the time to make sure the line of fire is not red and the targeting oval stops shrinking. Even when this oval is at its smallest diameter, the WOT server will not let you hit the target every time. The same applies in direct fire. Make sure that the circle is tiny and aim slightly low. Never try to fire on the move. You will miss.

- 4. Hide as best as you can. Far from the base and not close to another friendly arty. Conceal yourself in a bush high enough to hide your canon in an elevated position or — better — behind a slope or a building and use a camouflage net.

- 5. Move (not the same way as others tanks). Find your hiding spot quickly, use your reload time to move 10 meters minimum after each shot to escape counter-arty fire and relocate so as not to remain alone (i.e. follow your allies in their major moves) and escape the approaching enemies. Beware of fast tanks hunting arties, especially at the end of a battle. So regularly leave your special arty view to check your surroundings.

- 6. TD mode. When too much obstacles prevent you from using parabolic fire or when the enemy gets close (generally, you’re too slow to escape), act as a TD. Switch to normal view, face the enemy, get into reverse and try to guess the enemy trajectory or use the in-game auto-aim. This is particularly useful on urban maps such as Winterberg or Himmelsdorf.

- 7. Prioritize your targets. As a general rule, always choose a stationary target. Tanks threatening your base (and yourself) become priorities — so always watch your minimap. Then shoot 1. heavies first, 2. TDs, 3. mediums, 4. lights/scouts and 5. arties. Open top vehicules and scouts are a tempting target because they are easy to kill in one shot. But they generally move too fast and too frequently for them to be easy targets. Heavies, mediums and TDs engaged in ambushes or "round the corner" fights, as well as tanks detracked or on low health, are generally easier to hit because they move slower and less often. Of course, always leave regularly your arty view to look out for incoming scouts : when seen, they are the first priority target. Also, when an arty is lit up on the mini-map, it becomes first priority target.

- 8. Counter-arty. You can kill ennemy arties right at the start of the game by simply positionning your parabolic view where yourself would have been hiding your arty if you were on the opposing team. Then you wait for their arty’s first fire and the trajectory of its shell will indicate where it sits. You aim behind where he’s supposed to be. And after you’ve fired, you move (in order not get counter-battery fire on yourself). Check WOT-Pearlmam’s video WoT : How to Blind Kill Enemy Artillery to understand and learn the trick.

- 9. Aim according to range. Remember : in an arty, the aiming circle (or "oval", or reticule) represents the area where your shell would land, should it go through the target, while the crosshair represents where the shell will hit the target (or the earth). Also keep in mind that when you put your crosshair on an enemy tank, the game, in order to maximise your chances to hit the target, behaves as if you’re aiming at mid-heighth of the tank (that means that if the hull of the tank is hidden, you get a red line of fire, while if you move your crosshair slightly behind the tank, the line of fire becomes green and in fact whithout seeing it, you’re aiming at its turret !). At long range (more than 400 m), your trajectory flattens, so put your crosshair a little further behind the target and the target should be in the front part of the aiming oval. At mid range (between 300 and 400 m) : crosshair on the target, the aiming oval behind the target (yes, this is normal). At short range (50 to 300 m), crosshair on the front of the target. At close range (less than 50m), switch to normal view (often called "TD mode") and if the enemy is a scout shoot in the ground just in front of him. In parabolic (arty) view, when firing a moving target, know the speed of your shells, estimate the target’s length, heighth and speed and shoot accordingly : before the target, where it will be in 1 or 2 seconds, and through it.

From The Comprehensive Guide to Playing Artillery

- 10. Target the weak spots. Which is, in the SPG’s case, the *deck* of enemy tanks, not their flanks nor their front.

- 11. Use keys and mouse clicks. Press the X key to stop your tank moving when you move your crosshair, which causes the server reticule to widen. Press T or F2 when you fire to warn good players that you’re targeting a special tank. Hold down Z and pick the "Reloading !" in the bottom right or press F8 to indicate your reload time to your allies. Ctrl + click on the mini-map to indicate your allies the zones to watch (you have a much better view of what ’s going on than them).

- 12. Equipment : use a shell rammer and enhanced gun laying drive. Recommended skills and perks : sixth sense for the commander, camo and brother in arms.

Sources :

  • Beginners Guide to using Artillery (SPG) by CommissarKharkov on the WoT Americas forum (begin by reading this and watching the following video guide)
  • Artillery Guide by 1ManArmy4Lyfe : a very effective video tutorial, with all the basics included and under 10 mn
  • [WoT : General Artillery Strategy] by WOT-Pearlmam : learn to become an arty expert with this 20 mn video
  • World of SPG Guide : Part I, Part II. The basics explained the simple way
  • The Comprehensive Guide to Playing Artillery by more than 20 different authors on the WoT Americas forum. The most detailed written guide I’ve found, and full of excellent advice. But not be read first
  • World of Tanks Newb Intro : Ep 4, SPG Guide by lordchipmonk : THE video tutorial to watch to move from beginner to good. An excellent piece on counter battery (locating and firing on enemy artillery)
  • Artillery Guide by Tyraforce v2.0. Excellent to learn to choose equipment, skills and perks
  • WoT : guides on arty by Torvald ("40 tonn" on WoT) : a remarquable series of videos. The author is Russian, so switch on the English subtitles. He takes time to illustrate clearly what he does with his arty
  • World Of Tanks Arty Tactics and How to Play Arty by Iron Hidex. Despite its title, this very good video is in fact only about target prioritisation
  • Artillery How To : TD Mode by chzwhz.

Special German corner

  • most German tanks have very weak lower front glacis (LFG) armor : hit them there
  • so, when playing them, try to use hull down tactics (see rule 21.).

Special American heavies corner

  • American heavy tanks have weak hull armor : hit them there
  • but their turret is mostly impenetrable so, when playing them, always try to use hull down tactics (see rule 21.). All the more because they have extremely good gun depression.

Special (often slow and) fragile TDs (anti-tank / tank destroyer)

This deals with tactics for so-called "glass canon" (i.e. slow tank destroyers with little armor, which generally are a one or two-shot : FCM36 Pak40, Alecto, SAu 40, S35 CA, SU-76, SU-100 Y, T-28E F-30, Pz.Sfl. IVc, Nashorn, Sturer Emil, Dicker Max ...

  • choose carefully two places at the rear with maximum line of sight and go from one to the other when you’re spotted — for an example, see skill4ltu’s video Basics of Sniping ! (Prokhorovka South Spawn). OR choose one place as close as possible to the center of the map (so as to light up as many enemies as possible and at the same time control the map) but this place must provide hard cover (slope, rocks, walls) — see skill4ltu’s videos How to be a Sniper Schnitzel and Take this position, no matter the COST ! (Fjords South Spawn)
  • fire once and hide immediately (pekaboom), NEVER fire twice in a row. Remaining hidden is the key to survivability, but also to kills and credits
  • use bushes but remember : once you’ve fired, you’re spotted. So either stay 15 meters minimum from those bushes (see rules 29. and 30.) or back away behind hard cover as said above
  • stay away (i.e. a minimum of 200 meters) from the first line : you don’t have enough armor, speed nor manoeuverability. And you’re not a unicum. I know, it’s frustrating :-) Some exceptions :
    • your team has advanced a lot and protects you. Then find a long alley/street/narrow valley, position yourself in it, close enough — not too close — to the melee, and shoot the enemies, playing peek-a-boom
    • at the end of the battle, there are only two allied tanks left including you and not more than two enemy tanks left either
    • the enemy is caping or there is only 3 mn left and your team is down to you and one or two arties : you have to take risks
  • if you’re slow — which is often the case —, always stay close your base. Especially at the end when your team seems to have won and you want to go with your allies to cap (because that’s when the remaining enemies are going to cap your base — and remember : you’re slow and your allies are far away)
  • don’t come to your opponents and don’t let them outflank you or get close to you. On the contrary, go far away and up from them to take advantage of your gun and change location after having fired.

Sources :

Special KVs corner

  • do not engage a KV-1/KV-1S/KV-220/KV-2/KV-85 without having an anti-tank canon yourself or a TD by your side using APCR shells or another superior heavy tank
  • best tactics against a KV is to drive around him and fire at his flanks (easy penetration), especially behind the turret, or rear (strong fire possibility)
  • weak spots are the entire bottom rear portion of the KV’s hull, the portion of the hull above the tracks on its flanks, the machine gun port and — especially if not angled — the upper front glacis and upper side hull. For the KV-1S and especially the KV-220, add the turret’s sides
  • don’t drive a KV alone, work in pair. Ideally, have mediums to cover your flanks
  • don’t drive your KV in plains, go into the city
  • use sidescraping and pop up/peek-a-boom (get out, fire, get back under cover while you reload, get out, etc.)
  • for the KV-2, there is an old but still useful guide : the KV-2 Owner’s Handbook.

Sources :

Special O-I Experimental (a Japanese heavy tank, once widely used) corner

  • don’t go out in the open
  • never stay alone, you need mediums to cover your flanks
  • weak spots : the vertical upper glacis, the turret when not angled, the two small turrets on the front and above all the sides.

Sources :

Special Matilda and Valentine corner

  • those two British tanks medium are so heavily armored (and so slow) that they can be considered as heavies : it’s no use firing at their front, their turret or even their side. It’s very simple yet very difficult : you have to drive around them and fire at their rear hull only (maybe the commander’s cupola if your canon cain aim very precisely)
  • if you drive them, beware : their good armor shouldn’t induce you into getting too close to enemy heavies. Your gun is not powerful enough and your weak spots are known all over the world (of tanks).

Sources :

"WEBOGRAPHY" (useful links, especially tutorials)

Hereunder you will find guides for beginners and intermediate level players.

- Guides and tutorials - Whole web sites and YouTube channels :

- Guides and tutorials - Guides made especially for beginners (so called "noobs") :

- Guides and tutorials - Going further :

- Auto aim :

- Camouflage / detection :

- Weak spots :

- Ammunition ("ammo") :

- Armor angling :

- Game settings :

- WoT matchmaking :

- Alternatives to clans (recommended) :

  • in game, use Mumble or Teamspeak servers to communicate with your platoon mates
  • EFTAC French speaking WoT academy :
    EFTAC has its own dedicated topic on WoT forums.

- To find a forum thread or a guide on how to play any given tank, type "wot [name of tank]" in Google (without the quotes and brackets) and have a look at the five first results.

Incendie des transformateurs de la gare Montparnasse

SNCF, RTE été 2018 : une communication ratée qui coûte cher au voyageur

Un week-end d’enfer et ruineux

Dimanche 30 juin 2019

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Nos vacances d’été en famille de juillet 2018 avaient déjà bien commencé à l’aller grâce à la SNCF. Le retour allait être un feu d’artifice dans le style WTF (ou portenawak pour les générations précédentes).

Suite à l’incendie dans un poste de transformateurs de RTE (ex-EDF) à Issy-les-Moulineaux le vendredi 27 juillet, la SNCF a « annulé » (un mot politiquement correct pour dire supprimer) des dizaines et des dizaines de trains, particulièrement des TGV de vacanciers.

Communication contradictoire

Pour le samedi 28, la communication de la SNCF parlait de 60 à 70% de trains disponibles. Et dimanche 29, ce fut pire : 50% seulement [43]. Ce qui n’a pas empêché le nôtre d’être supprimé le vendredi soir. Au moins, puisque nous avions donné notre mail à TrainLine, la SNCF a pu nous prévenir directement, par un mail reçu vendredi à 21h08. Mais quand les bureaux de la gare locale sont fermés et le 3635 totalement injoignable (message d’accueil en boucle), ça fait "short" pour trouver une solution de rechange. Bon, on se démène, on en trouve une : un OuiBus (tiens, une filiale de la SNCF !).

Absence de communication

Mais pas de chance, le lendemain, le TER [44] qui nous emmène à Rennes où nous devons prendre notre Ouibus, ce TER se prend 1h30 de retard. Ce retard est dù à une panne de la locomotive [45] d’un train de marchandises [46] situé sur la même voie ferrée devant nous. Nous passons une heure en rase campagne avec peu ou pas de connexion, cherchant frénétiquement des alternatives.

Notre Ouibus part donc à 13h30 sans nous. Et faute d’avoir été prévenu à temps de l’ampleur du retard (combiné à l’absence de connexion), nous sommes hors délai pour tenter d’échanger notre Ouibus de 13h30 contre le dernier disponible samedi — même s’il arrive à minuit à Paris [47].

Arrivés en gare de Rennes, nous allons passer trois heures à découvrir tous les étages et les différents départements d’une gare transformée en véritable labyrinthe par ses travaux pharaoniques de reconstruction, à nous énerver, à nous émerveiller du manque de maîtrise de la communication de la compagnie nationale puis à finalement trouver un arrangement correct mais sans plus au service clients (là où on vend les billets ... et où on traite aussi les réclamations ...).

Intérieur de la gare de Rennes en travaux à l’été 2018

Communication : le service client meilleur que la direction

C’est à ce service client que nous allons apprendre un point clé. Bon à savoir : en cas de grandes perturbations sur le réseau ferré (vocabulaire interne à la société nationale pour signifier grandes graves ou grandes pannes) : n’annulez pas vos réservations et ne vous faites pas rembourser vos billets, quand bien même votre train risque d’être ou a été annulé. Je répète : N’ANNULEZ PAS vos résa et billets (que vous les ayez pris auprès de la SNCF, de TrainLine ou de tout autre agence de voyage). Gardez vos titres de transport. N’achetez PAS une autre solution de transport.

En effet, en cas de grandes perturbations, et sans le reconnaître officiellement, la SNCF accepte (et ses contrôleurs et chefs de gare recommandent même expressément) que toute personne ayant un billet non utilisé et non annulé pour un trajet donné puisse monter dans un train allant à sa destination sans se préoccuper de savoir s’il a une réservation ni de quoi que ce soit d’autre.

Or, pour éviter que tout le monde fasse ainsi et que cela crée des paniques, de la fraude et des problèmes de sécurité, la SNCF s’abstient soigneusement de communiquer sur cette possibilité. Pire : elle conseille/demande à ses clients de reporter leur voyage.

Autrement dit : la direction et sa com’ dans les médias, d’une part, et leurs agents sur place, d’autre part, se contredisent. Et les bons tuyaux ne sont pas ceux de la direction.

Sans trains disponibles, allons devoir, ce samedi, passer une nuit à l’hôtel et dîner au restaurant. A quatre, ce n’est pas donné ...

Encore des lacunes dans la communication

Deuxième gros problème de communication SNCF : le fameux train de marchandises qui nous a fait rater notre Ouibus est un train privé opéré par un opérateur privé, pas la SNCF. Les contrôleurs me disent donc : pas la faute de la SNCF, pas d’indemnisation. Et puis de toute façon, ça ne dépasse pas les fameuses trois heures de retard.

Certes, mais :

  • ni les contrôleurs ni la gare de Rennes ne sont pas capables de me donner les coordonnées de cet opérateur privé. Comment pourrais-je alors me retourner contre lui ?
  • et l’information sur le retard exact n’a été donnée par le chef de train du TER que bien trop tard pour la plupart des passagers du TER. En tout cas, trop tard pour nous pour pouvoir modifier notre réservation Ouibus.

Autres absurdités communicationnelles

Autres bizarreries voire absurdités communicationnelles, SNCF ou non :

  • la compagnie nationale a choisi de "charger" lourdement RTE, qui non seulement a failli mais n’a pu activer selon les Echos aucun des trois systèmes de sauvegarde ("backup"). Mais selon François Brottes, le président du directoire de RTE, c’est tout simplement parce que la SNCF avait choisi de mettre tous ses œufs dans le même panier : ses backups étaient sur le même site RTE d’Issy-les-Moulineaux [48]. Or tout plan de continuité d’activité (PCA) sérieux implique de choisir un fournisseur ou au moins un établissement/lieu différent pour son backup et de faire des exercices et des tests. Il s’avère que la SNCF a bien séparé ses trois lignes d’alimentation électrique de la gare Montparnasse et que RTE a commis l’erreur de les regrouper. Pour autant, la SNCF n’a visiblement pas poussé l’analyse de résilience jusqu’aux fournisseurs et contrats associés [49], contrairement à ce que pas mal de spécialistes des PCA recommandent [50]. Charger RTE peut aussi servir à masquer les déboires de la SNCF l’an dernier à la même époque
  • les médias ont insisté sur l’aspect catastrophe mais, très largement hélas, n’ont pas enquêté sur les causes de l’incendie du centre RTE ni surtout sur le plus important pour leurs lecteurs : l’importance exacte des dégâts sur les transformateurs. Ils se sont contentés des photos et commentaires des internautes ayant posté sur Internet et des (rares) communiqués de presse sur ce sujet puis des estimations de retour à la normale émises par RTE et la SNCF
  • RTE ni vendredi ni samedi n’avait publié quoi que ce soit sur son site web. La société s’était contenté d’un communiqué au format image — même pas texte — sur son compte Twitter et d’une courte déclaration aux radios TV du président de son directoire. En matière de gestion de crise médiatique et communicationnelle, à la question "Y-a-t-il un pilote dans l’avion ?", la réponse pouvait être au choix "Les pilotes sont en vacances" ou "Les pilotes sont des amateurs" [51], voire les deux. RTE s’est toutefois excusé et a mis les bouchées doubles pour trouver une solution temporaire permettant aux abonnés EDF, Direct Énergie etc. de revenir à la normale.

Plus largement, la fébrilité des ministres des transports et de l’énergie masquait mal des questions sur les investissements sur les infrastructures et la préférence — et le soutien financier — de l’élite française pour le nucléaire (et Areva, ex-Commissariat à l’énergie atomique).

Emmanuel Barthe
consommateur voyageur, client SNCF, à qui cette histoire a coûté pas loin de 600 euros supplémentaires, billets Ouibus et frais de nourriture et d’hôtel pour quatre inclus

Under water - Walking in the ruins

Mercredi 6 février 2019

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Un champion de plongée en apnée part marcher sous l’eau, inspectant des temples mayas abandonnés, gravissant des falaises, varapant, sautant, volant [52].

Unbelievable. Magique.

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